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I don't want to get the thread too far off track, but that guy sets the bar so high. We should all strive to reach that level of work.

I thought that might be the case, but technology changes so fast, it seemed like a good opportunity to share whats available these days. I've been trying to get access to the renishaws for exactly that kind of thing, a 3d printed intake. It would have to be in multiple pieces and welded, no...

We have Renishaw RemAM 500q printers at work, used for mostly aluminum. But only have a print volume of 10x10x13, the machine costs $250,000 and the parts require all the normal machining. Something big enough to print a head, like a GE Concept Laser X, they're over $1,000,000.

This is a good info thread. I'm going to add more info to my spreadsheet to round out 67-72 and 72+ (since mine is a mix of both for BBP) and post and updated screenshot, or a link to the sheet.

Good questions. I edited my post to add those details. 73+ Ball joints, 73+ bbp disc spindle, 72 pitman, 11/16 tie rods and adjusters

I'm another that used pro forged to rebuild my steering. They had everything available back in 2020. I'm really happy with everything, I've had no issues at far. Full parts list below. Edit: @4spdragtop asked a good question. 73+ Ball joints, 73+ bbp disc spindle, 72 pitman, 11/16 tie rods...

That's pretty interesting. The info I've heard is that Mopar doesn't sell crate 8HP70s because ZF refused to allow it. The trans only lives because of torque management, and without a link between the ECU and TCU to support calls for reduced torque on shifts, they'll die. The Sound German...

That's too bad. I was really hoping for performance above ported Edelbrocks, but less $ than what Indy charges. Just info, not looking to upgrade at this point. It's always good to have more options.

Another year, another rumor of new heads available. I'm looking for any extra info to confirm, but the article says release date of December 2024 for the as-cast version. https://www.dragzine.com/features/sema-coverage/sema-2024-afr-launches-new-performance-parts-for-chevy-and-mopar/

He passed a few years ago. https://www.jwardfuneralhome.com/obituaries/larry-a-woodward-7-3-2021/

Anyone considering a modern gearbox like the NAG1 or 8hp70 should keep in mind what allows them to live behind a hellcat, or even a regular 5.7. Torque management. It's been used since at least the 42TE in the 90s to reduce engine power on a shift and dramatically improve transmission life. If...

John was a fountain of knowledge and a good human being, his passing is a loss for us all.

I used all proforged parts when I rebuilt the front end a few years back, the parts seemed well made, everything fit well and I've had zero issues.

Brutal. It's good that you caught it early though. When I set mine up SM heads with Mikes kit, I set the oil band in the adjuster centered on the oil hole in the rocker, did a sanity check with air and tightened the nut. Then I checked my pushrod length and ordered. Side note, I can say that...

I ended up using proforged for all my front end parts when I went though the front end in 2020. I upgraded to 11/16 adjusters and tie rods at the same time. Holley owns them now, might have back then too. I ended up buying through amazon because of shipping costs (you have to pay for returns...

This is what I bought to replace the red top that wouldn't keep a charge. Is it ugly? Yes. But 4 year warranty and it's dual start/deep cycle. https://www.batteriesplus.com/product-details/auto_light-truck/battery/x2power/sli34agmdp

Flow numbers from both sets of heads added to the spreadsheet in the racing section

I'll take it.

Two year update. After the initial loosening (half torque in under 200mi) they've remained tight since I retorqued in spring 2022. Not an ideal situation, but it seems sorted out on my end

I was wondering about that in my head, but thought it wouldn't be nice to say out loud. The Indy setup seems expensive until you price out all the parts to build something comparable. I should have bought a set myself, but I nickel and dimed myself instead.

That's because we're all victims of the forums best troll. There's no way a real person would keep coming back and saying this kind of ****.

If you're not great with electrical, do yourself a favor. Print out the under hood and dash wiring harness pages, biggest you can make them. Get a highlighter and going between the two, highlight everywhere that gets power through the fusible link. Don't forget the power after the ign switch...

You can try the 72 manual, hard to know exactly what the changes are, but it should be close enough for diag work if you're solid with electrical work. Service Manuals – MyMopar To follow up on your posts some. 1. Don't keep burning up fusible links, if you have to make a repair again...

That's a lot of interest Andy. Is there any interest on your end to doing a group buy? Everyone who's interested pays some (or all) up front?

Good catch, I was thinking of the Edelbrock high flow pump. Anybody use one of these water pumps? Edelbrock, PRW, CVF all sell the same closed back, cast iron impellor design with a volute housing.

Lots of vendors sell the same pump as milodon Edelbrock. CVF racing carries it on their ebay store for $49 Chrysler Mechanical Water Pump, High Volume Aluminum 318 340 360 - CVF Racing | eBay

I'd also be interested in a kit of parts or a PCB and BOM that I assemble myself. I have pretty bad voltage drop between the battery, ign switch and the VR currently. If you're interested in a low run of just PCBs or want to sell a dev. PCB let me know, I'll pay whatever a fair price is.

I'm interested in one with the battery Sense line vs sensing voltage via the ignition switch. Honestly, the amphenol is Overkill for me, I'd prefer pigtails and I can put a deustch connector on it, I use them all over the place in my harness

I'm running one now. Mine was missing the pilot in the bore that lets you get it started on the crank and aligned with the key. I had to unbolt the hub and toss it in the lathe. In addition, it's a duplicate of the original fluidamper, so it requires either a special crank pulley (march 10151)...