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I used US Cartool subframe connector after considering making my own. They are a very nice product, but it took a whole lot of cutting and grinding to get them to fit the contours or *my* floorboards. I had replaced the front floor boards, not the rear. So the floor contours were not...

has the damper with the timing mark moved?

If you are willing to spend the money, this type of flare tool works great:. Professional Brake Tubing Flaring Tool

Do you have power steering now? If not you need the pump bracket.

Year of the vehicle

No video, but i can spin both wheels with my slant with a 3.10 (ford) rear-end. But only if the brakes are on!

I had to modify my 1965 Valiant to use PST upper control arms (I'm pretty sure those are what I used. Straight tube-design?) Someone provided an image earlier where you have to cut the mount. (Not sure if the instructions said to add reenforcements to replace the metal you are removing, but...

What brand?

I got tube UCA and they required modification of the mounting location (cutting and welding). Not all require that, but be sure to know before you buy.

I think a simple plate would work pretty good to block most of the heat (assuming you don't drive your slant when it is cold outside). But imagine the exhaust manifold flow is uglier than need-be. I used to have a /6 exhaust manifold where someone chopped off the heat-riser and welded it shut...

And by "this" block-off plate, you mean? (Did you mean to attach a picture?) I'm curious about this thread because I've been thinking of blocking-off the heat-riser... I'm assuming people do such things..

I'd call Wilwood and ask their opinion... they do have good tech support. Unrelated to Wilwood, I recently had some sticky caliper pistons on my 4-piston Tundra calipers and I would have sworn the master cylinder was going bad... the pedal went almost to the floor. Still makes no sense to me...

I know you said you bench bled it, but are you sure you used the full travel of the pushrod? Did you use the Wilwood bench bleeding lines or make your own? Its not an MC size issue. You've gotta have air in there...

If I toss my slant back together, am I going to find that these marks are from the connecting rods hitting the thrust bearings? (See photo.) I'm assuming so... I'm just too lazy to put it back together to confirm, at this point. If so, is this normal?!

Heads are interchangable. Corky Bells book "Maximum Boost" sugests a stock cam is usually your best bet unless you really know what you are doing.

Qa1?

FWIW, episode 97 of HotRod Garage just did a Ford 8.8" into a mopar a-body (and by adding this comment here, I can find it later when I google-search!)

I really like that! I didn't realize they are 1/8" thick. I might have to copy your design (by taking an off-the shelf crank-shaft position sensor and modifying it on the lathe). Unless you have those for sale still?

What are people using for crank and cam position sensing with Megasquirt on their /6? I was hoping to avoid a crank-shaft position sensor in favor of adapting a "high resolution" cam shaft position sensor (replacing the distributor, obviously). But, from the documentation, the only option I...

ha... ya... I've tried the bluetooth a couple times... 'nuff said.

Wow. That's cool. You have bad power (the lighting bolt). Those screens take some juice as does the pi. The power-supplies (plugged into the wall) have been the biggest challenge in using those screens. You might want to power a (fused) 12V to 5V regulator directly from a switched battery...

I'm very interested in seeing that. I do allot with the raspberry pi, I own several of those touch-screens. They are nice. I'm *just* starting megasquirt. (Literally today I got my first sensor, a temp sensor I had lying around hooked-up and "calibrated".)

The slant 6 is that way too.

Thanks Dan! Once I heard I wasn't the ONLY guy to find this, I figured that's what it was. I had no plans to touch it (if it works: don't fix it). But, then, if people remove 'em, I'll remove it! (I just didn't want to create a problem out of a non-problem!)

There lending them here in Minnesota

So... I just found it curious that there is an "almost floating" metal rod in the head. I mean it can't go anywhere, but it's "loose". Doesn't look like something that could have been put in there AFTER manufacturing, so I'm guessing it's a byproduct of the casting process? May it held...

Do you know what casting/year block you have?

Ya, i got one like that, and it worked well. I think, since i have the head off, the clamp style might be easier. But this style works well enough and cheaper!

Bench