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never mind thx

Can you tell me what it is out of, A or B body? I can come by tonight or tomorrow. PM me, yours is full.

Still have the 8 3/4? I'm in Natomas

I'm in Sacramento and I'm interested in the 8 3/4 if you still have it. PM me thx

Yes

I have to assume their out there? thx

67Dart273, thanks for the info on the ecu. Turns out it will work with either input so I don't need the dual ballast. Here it is currently. I believe, as I stated days ago, that I have fixed my starting issue and improved things greatly with every ones help and knowledge. thx

I'll check tomorrow morning

Let me see if I understand your 5 pin or 4 pin box comment. Two wires from the box go to opposite sides of the bottom resistor and both wires are getting almost the same voltage. If one wire is not needed, I can disconnect them one at a time and the car should still run? I I can remove one of...

I do understand that the choke shouldn't be powered from that point on the ballast and will be disconnected tomorrow(not needed for now). The shop that worked on my car installed the ballast and made a lot of bad choices as well as shitty work.

Here is my wiring for 69 Dart, all the colors match my wiring except at ballast since originally it had a single ballast resister. I did reverse the ballast as you and many others suggested but same results. Are you and others saying the resistance changes when the wires are reversed? Not on...

No standard for sure but just the dist/ecu/eng/trans are not stock. Would love simpler, PM me if you want to go into detail.

brn is ign2 from ign switch, red is to elect choke, org to coil. Ign2 supplies coil during cranking I believe.

RRR, no offense taken, it looked worse before I cleaned it up. The details you provide is exactly what this old man is looking for. I want to say thanks to all that gave me some input, I want to learn/understand not just fix the problem. I found and fixed two issues that I hope will keep...

When I got my car back from a shop, the car wouldn't run. Most of the wiring you see in my pic is from the shop. I removed the ballast and found the ECU only bolted on the bottom flange with a sheet metal bolt. They drilled 6 fn holes in my firewall for the ECU and only one lined up and was...

my current setup. Brn is ign2

Sorry for mixing terms. Had a V8 pinto after HS Class of 79, maybe that is where HEI entered my brain.

Is Ignition box same as ECU, part of the HEI system? If yes it is new

Yes voltmeter, dual ballast. I drove it home from a shop hotwired because ign1 was cut, fixed that first.

I have a color coded 69 wiring diagram.

I've been having this issue for about a month. First time it happened I played with the car on a Saturday with no issues, started it many times. Sunday it wouldn't start but it has always cranked over. When I would stop cranking it hinted at starting. It did this over and over. I hot wired...

Sorry, I'm kinda new to this and I'm old, I thought I was just commenting. I'll start a new thread for my issue.

I currently have had that same issue for several weeks. One day it starts and the next it just cranks and when I let off the key it acts as if it wants to fire. Everything else has been replaced except the starter relay. i'll buy one tonight.

per the wiring diagrams I have looked at, the field wire from alt goes direct to input side of VR. I get 0 volts at the field terminal with the wire detached.

I'll tear it apart tomorrow and then get a new one before work. thx

69 Dart GT 413 with 1 field wire alt & mechanical reg Wiring is stock again except upgraded dist wiring Yesterday I measured 0 vdc output at the field connector and 2 at the input to reg

New alternator was working and now 2 vdc @ input to reg. Only thing I found was frayed field wire touching valve cover. thx

Thanks all