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Here is a full set of stainless steel trim in good condition. Appears to be straight without any dings or dents. Asking $75 plus shipping. Or best offer this is located in Temecula California.

I have a Full passenger side 66–67 commando V8 exterior trim. Peace is in fair condition with a couple dings. Fixable for sure. Asking $25 Plus shipping. Part is located in Temecula California

LOL, I don’t even know what a “troll” is. ADMIN: can you please delete this post?

Yes it is registered. I’ve actually never driven it on the freeway but I’m not sure why it wouldn’t drive on the freeway. I’ll take a picture of the interior right now. painted most of the trim for the inside when I painted the car I just haven’t put it back in yet. Does not have a headliner. My...

65 Dart GT recently painted with a fair paint job, 8 3/4 rear end posi 3.23, 71 340 with flowmaster Delta 40s, all new front end bushings and tie rods, alignment done, new windshield, all new brakes and new dual master cylinder. Car runs great, needs tuning and adjustment. Metal is solid. A...

Goodbye.

My other son has a car as well. He put a Lipo battery and a brushless motor in it. It did wheelies and ran great until he totally ripped the gears out of the gearbox. We just put in a modified metal gear kit

I was at the hobby store yesterday and apparently team associated purchased helion and is selling all of their parts under the Team Associated name now. Different part numbers as well.

Helion Avenge 1/10 I believe. I also think that helion went out of business. The local hobby shop here purchased all the remaining inventory. It was a complete ready to run car for $170. About a $400 value normally.

Not a Mopar but still lots of front end work on the Avenge! 8 year old is still learning to control his 50+ mph RC truck. Hit the curb and destroyed the from end. New skid plate, bumper, yoke, trans case! Whew!

That is the driver side outer light. It’s also the optional clear lens in the center for the reverse lights. I just double checked it on my 65. Definitely driver side outer. The straight edge of the lights also has a slight angle to it. They are not square. Driver side outer and passenger side...

I just added this to the original post but wasn’t sure if you would see it. The rear end is pretty much all new metal and isEDP coded. Do I need to remove this coding before painting?

I just recently finished painting the exterior of my Dart. It was the first time I had ever painted a car and I learned a lot. I’m curious with how to go about painting the inside of a car. Is the prep of the metal on the inside as important as the outside? Just thinking about tight spots like...

The distance between the steering shaft and the manifold is very close. A little tiny bit of the pin barely touches the manifold when it turns. The shaft itself does not touch but it’s probably between a 16th and an eighth of an inch distance

Yes, There is a very slight DD shape to the end of the shaft that goes up about 1 inch

Passenger side is very close especially since I shimmed up the driver side. There’s probably in one section about an eighth of an inch between the inner fender and the embossed numbers on the manifold. Driver side has plenty of clearance

Bearing or no bearing, I’m just showing everyone what I did to make these manifolds work. I know there’s always tons of questions as to whether or not these manifolds will fit or work. I’m just saying that they worked for me.

Yes, the stud is actually coming through the nut. It’s locked down on there very well.

It’s not rubbing as far as I can see. I probably do need to adjust the jacket so that it sits more centerline

Surprisingly the pin popped right out. I put it in a small to medium size vice with a socket on one side to take up the pin as it got pushed through. About half a turn and it popped and slid right out.

I just finished my project of installing 5.9 magnum manifolds into my 65 dart running a 340, 904LA automatic floor shift transmission. I did a lot of research on this site, did a lot of trial and error and here is exactly what I used to make these manifolds work in my car. 5.9 magnum manifolds...

Got it!!! Thanks for the suggestion.

i pressed the pin out and will drill a hole like suggested. Slipped right on!

Set screw Is on the splined side and sets into the original notch on the steering box shaft. I was going to notch the other side to allow for the “plunge” like the original style coupler. A drilled hole would work too just no room for plunge.

I received my steering coupler/U-joint. Steering box side is splined with a set screw. Shaft side is smooth. The end of the shaft still has the pin through it where the old coupler Plunges/engages. I was thinking of notching the new coupler to receive the pin on either side of the shaft. There...

I have four pulleys for sale The following part numbers: 3640851-$25 3614382-$20 3614378-$50 And a single crank pulley with no number. stamped with the letter “S“ on it. $20 all pulleys are plus shipping. Located in Temecula, CA

Some more pics

Hey guys, I’m taking a step back and looking at my overall financial situation. I’ve had 2 project cars with The Main being my 69 super bee then I picked up a 65 Dart GT a few years back. I am considering selling the 65 Dart GT. I’m not sure how the market is right now for resale so I’m trying...

5.9 magnum exhaust manifolds work with a little work!