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We are finally getting this set up and in, I’m confused as to what exactly we are doing at the disconnect. Is it one blue wire on each small lug of the disconnect one runs to 85 and the other to 86 on the relay?

Awesome, thanks for the info and diagrams! That’s exactly what we were hoping to find when I posted this. I really appreciate the input from both of you, I’m sure we can get it set up now, we were just drawing a blank as to how to make everything work and be NHRA legal.

May dad and I are working on wiring up my 71 duster street/strip car and we are trying to figure out how to wire everything up and be legal to run it at any NHRA track. I have a stock style Mopar alternator with 2 field wires and the main power lead, a 4 pole kill switch, and a MSD Digital 6al...

If you decide to split them up I’d be interested in a painted one to fit my 71 Duster. I’m in Grand Rapids, Ohio, so maybe we could work something out.

You make a good point. I have been looking at the PUI covers that Summit sells. Just not sure of the quality.

Im putting together a pitina paint 71 Duster and I have a pair of 73-74 dart sport/duster buckets for it. One cover is decent enough to use (passenger side)but the other is fairly tattered (driver side). I know it’s a long shot but I thought maybe if someone had a pair that were in similar...

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$190

I have a NOS right Taillight lens for a 1972 Fury, asking $30 plus actual shipping

I have 2 NOS 73+ Duster/ Dart Sport bumper guards, I opened one box for pictures other is still stapled. Asking $200 plus actual shipping

Ive got a NOS bumper guard for a 73 Scamp. Asking $75 plus actual shipping

I’m interested in the orange 40

Here’s a couple pictures of the pattern on the pinion.

Here are 2 more pictures of the ring gear from a different angle

I actually just got home from the shop so I’ll grab a couple tomorrow night.

According to my math I was dead on at 2.763”

Here is it pattern with a load on the carrier. It doesn’t look like the pattern shown in the instructions that came with the ring and pinion. Thoughts?

I was not putting any load on it at all just spinning it though, I checked backlash in 4 spots it was .008 in 2 spots .007 in one and .009 in the other the ring gear calls out .008 for backlash. What is the best way to put a load on the carrier?

I got the gears assembled recently and tried to pattern it tonight but can’t seem to get a good read on it. I believe that I need to bring the pinion out more but I’m not entirely sure because as I said I can’t read the pattern as well as I’d hoped. So I decided to post some pictures in hopes of...

That’s a really good idea thanks!

i have a 489 case that had 4:10 gears and a cone suregrip, both of which at junk( the pin in the sure grip broke and the pinion gear lost a tooth) I have a powr-lok and brand new Richmond 4:30s for it, my question is mostly about pinion depth. The 4:10s did not have a shim between the bearing...

Most definitely, most of the parts for this car have been bought just like this Diff, scouring the web for a deal. I’m on a tight budget with 3 young kids, but it’s been a lot of fun finding the right deals!

I got it from a rearend shop in Detroit, it was a left over they had from a project that didn’t get used. Found it on Facebook marketplace and drove an hour and a half each way to get it. I’m pretty happy with the buy!

Thanks for clarifying!

Guess I better make sure these side bearings are right because this is going in a 489 case

That’s a ‘58 7.5hp I’m getting running for someone, I have a ‘59 10hp I use on my duck boat, really good old engines!

This is definitely a new reproduction Powr-lok, the car will be footbrake with Mickey Thompson Et street radials and a 727. I currently have a 10” B&M 3000ish stall converter but I’ve been eyeing a used TCI 9” “J” converter for it. Hopefully it will be fine.

Yeah I’m sure it will have traction issues on the street, but it’s getting a set of 275/60/15 Mickey Thompson ET Street Pros so hopefully that will help.

I debated going with a spool but decided to go limited slip because I do plan to drive it on the street locally some (back and forth to work and local shows)

I have a set of doctor diff 4.5 bolt pattern axles for it with screw in studs.