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Never came back and updated this when I got the car done and on the road. There’s the hellcat splitter on the ‘68. Iffy on the corner guards but I have them on it for now.

Looking for a complete set of sun visors for my ‘68 Dart. Black would be great but anything will work. Driver quality is fine. Better than the nothing I have now. Please let me know the price shipped to 95632. Thanks!

Hi guys- thanks everyone who replied. I found a set (just housings) locally in Sac, I had to buy the set but I really wanted to put the car in its first show Saturday, so I pulled the trigger. Much appreciated everyone who replied.

I’ll take both of you don’t want to split them up! One of mine is now cracked beyond repair. JB weld only held up so long. Shipped to 95632 or local is fine! Even better if I can get it by a show next Saturday!

Thanks! 3 year project. Just got the brakes bled last night to pull it out for its first bath! Hasn’t been out of the garage in a long while- just in time to pick up Moms for Mother’s Day dinner tomorrow!

“Some modifications required” haha!

1968 Dodge Dart Front US Mag “Rambler” 17x7 4.05 Backspace 225/40Z17 Nitto Invo 73+ Disk Conversion, QA1 Tubular UCAs Rear US Mag “Rambler” 18x9.5 5.29 Backspace 275/40Z18 Nitto Invo Narrowed Disk 8.8, offset spring hangers, Hotchkis Leafs, aggressive roll.

I bench bled it in the vice, no issues getting it bubble free. After research on here, I also cracked the lines on the master with pops holding one pump to see if I got anything at the master. The car HAS been sitting for a little over a year, other than in and out of a paint booth, but I...

No name generic 15/16s chrome unit. Maybe it’s time to pull the trigger on a Dr. Diff unit and see if it’s the master. Hate to just throw money at the problem but I’ve been trying to bleed it for a few days now and nothing is working. Lines and flares are all good. No leaks. Bleeders are all up...

I’ll give this a try, and the shorter pedal strokes. Bled plenty of cars without any issues. Normally I hate changing more than 1 thing at once and this is exactly why! Just a got it back from paint/body and threw a ton of parts at it. Assuming I didn’t get a good bleed on the master...

Ok, no matter how many times I bleed the brakes I am getting air in all 4 corners. Car is a 1968 Dart, factory KH disk car. I did the 8.8 swap for rear disks and 73+ swap for BBP. All new soft lines and calipers on all 4 corners. New 15/16ths master that was bench bled. No visible leaks, no...

Quick specs for those considering the swap. With the aluminum diff cover and cut down 8.8 the fluid capacity is right at 2.5 quarts. If you are going 7290 driveshaft to 1330 rear, Spicer 5-7437X is the U-joint your looking for. The Driver side Explorer Parking Brake cable is almost the perfect...

Thanks! I was trying to avoid pulling the regulator out, but honestly I should and put new rollers on it. I’ll just do one side at a time so I have a reference. Love the roll down quarters, but the adjustment is driving me crazy!

I’m probably striking out because I don’t know the correct terminology. Was working on my window and snapped one of these fellas. A.) What’s the actual term? B.) Please tell me they are repopped. C.) what does on the back? Do I have a broken end in the regulator now?

At ride height, yes. I moved the tank as far rearward as physically possible, and with two guys bouncing my suspension it’s right there. Close but it does clear.

I have 5.28 backspace on a 18x9.5, but my springs are offset and I have 1/2 inch clearance to them.

Well, mines done once I figure out brake lines and actually get my car back from paint. Pretty happy with it though. The anti-wrap perches should let me move the axle back and center it up in the wheel arch a little better.

Make sure to check out the late 90’s Mountaineers. All the explorers in the yard with 3.73s had 200,000+ on them and were beat. The 2 mountaineers on the yard still looked halfway decent and the one with 3.73s (that I pulled) had 116,000. I’ll do bearings and seals anyway since it’s apart but I...

Awesome. Do you still have my number? Did you get away with a dimple on the ‘74 or did you have to cut a hole? I’ve seen people say both.

Good to know on the SAE. I assumed it was all metric like everything else modern. Appreciate you! For the group, here’s where I’m at. My rear came from ‘98 Mountaineer. The ones local had much lower miles than the explorer. Contrary to some of what I read, same width as the explorers in the...

No worries bud. Sorry to hear that hope things improve. I’ll get it worked out. :thumbsup:

Like several other members, I am also looking for a set, either MP, Mancini or Doctor Diff for my Hotchkis spring. Wrapping up my 8.8 swap and unfortunately already welded my perches at 42” on center so project is going to be stalled until I find a set. Thanks!

Really liking this concept. Can you get sharesome more info on your brake line setup? I’m just about there in my 8.8 swap after I weld it up this week .

Not to derail the thread, but are those the Amazon garage tiles? I like the way they look, but always wondered how they would hold up to weight on a small surface area, like a Jack or engine hoist. How do you like them?

Relatively flat to the bumper. Its all coming back off for paint, so mostly just mocked up to to verify my width was good. Its been out and about around town. Ill get some more pictures for those that are curious.

Old thread but just for kicks: I did the Ranger spoiler on my duster (pictured in the thread) but went a different direction for the dart. Has anyone noticed how much the Hellcat splitter lines match the 67-69 cars bumper lines? Here’s mine sectioned 4” out of the center to square it up.

Then I'm not going to worry about it too much. Going to try longer links and see if that helps. Looking at the thread you posted above, the post directly below yours looks exactly like my setup, with the same issue Im having. The only difference is looking at his bar where the end link goes...

Thanks Rusty. I agree the ground clearance would help. I might try and copy that setup. My only questions, and forgive my ignorance, is I thought the trailing arms of the sway bar were supposed to be parallel to the ground at right height? If I can go higher or lower, I think I can make this one...

Therein lies part of my problem. At some point in her life, she got the newer style tabbed LCAs, but still has the '68 K. I think that the mismatch rules out most of the aftermarket sway bars that are direct bolt ins for either style.

No kicking here. I even started with stating is probably a dumb questions. But the tabs aren't welded on, they are bolted to the schock mount, which seems pretty normal, even if its not ideal.