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I run my original California plates front and back. Also have the original blue and yellow plates on my 1974 Bronco. Completely legal here.

On your glass issue. You need to just make a template and have some laminate glass cut to fit. No need to try to use the original tempered glass. I work at a glass shop now and we do it all the time for guys building hot rods.

The one I got a little over a year ago fit perfectly. None of the issues you brought up weren't a problem. Slid right into place and the screw holes even lined up perfectly, which I thought would be a problem. I wonder if they had a new guy cutting them.

It looks like a 79-85 Cadillac Eldorado rear caliper. Common for rear disc brake conversions.

No antenna on my car. Like the smooth look and the radio doesn't work anyways.

Sure looks like it. The Dana 35 would have a more oval shaped cover.

Why cut up a second cross member? It's a simple modification. Do search there's some really good write ups on modifying your original.

Seen that a number of times while working at the tow company. Thieves are the scum of the earth.

Could be, but they also could be for a 4dr. How long are they?

I got a set of comp 7822-16 pushrods from summit today. I got all my adjustment back. My old pushrods must be really worn. The worst one, the cup was .025 deeper than the new ones. I wish I had a large set of calipers, so I could measure them.

The last set of pro forged that I bought were made in Taiwan. The quality was still 100% better the last set of moogs that I bought.

Any recommendations for a good set of pushrods? I haven't had to buy any in years.

Well, after pulling the rocker shafts and doing some measuring it looks like I need new pushrods. Number 1 cylinder exhaust pushrod is definitely worn more than the others. The cup end was .010 deeper than the intake push rod. The ball end looked more worn also. I couldn't get and accurate...

Were the heads milled .010 ths to clean them up? I don't remember what was done to the heads at that time. I know I did reuse the original pushrods. The motor has run fine, but recently the valve train has gotten a little noisier. Hence the decision to adjust the valves. It was late...

Yesterday I pulled the valve covers on my 66 273 to adjust the valves. Some of the adjusting screws are almost bottomed out on the rocker. Now, I built the motor 36 years ago and I'm sure it has less than 50k on it. I remember the machine reground the cam and resurfaced the lifters. I used...

I run the Dr diff manual brake master cylinder with an adjustable push rod. With the 4 wheel disc brakes it stops as well as my 06 Ford. It feels so much safer to drive now. I put 200 miles on it yesterday, cruising the mountain roads, and it was so much nicer to drive. It was great having...

Happy New Year's to all you east coasters. Not quite there yet here in the west.

Probably not with radials. I would fill tires a check the contact patch. Add or subtract psi until tread pattern contacts the ground evenly across.

As all things in life, something good will happen during a bad time. For me it's been the very recent reconnection with an ex-girl friend, who's been really supportive. Thanks for all the kind words of support.

Going to take some time to figure what I'm going to do. My body has been telling me I should stop doing heavy equipment repair. May look into more management/foreman oriented position somewhere.

Five months shy of 20 years of employment the company I worked for closed it doors today. The company was in continues operation since 1960. I knew the final day was today, but it's still a downer. First time I've ever been laid off from a job. I'll have a lot of good memories from the place...

Hmm must be how they make poly bushings. I ordered a set of b-body bushings to get a set of shackle bushings for my Dart (no one had any a-body sets in stock). The shackle bushings were the same as shown above. Never owned a b-body so I just assumed they had a wider spring.

I've never had a problem with buying parts from them. They've been bashed by the same people everytime their name comes up. Whether they make all their own parts or not doesn't matter to me. I would rather spend my cash with them instead of places like classic industries. Granted for my...

I totally dig Ian's work. He has some very unorthodox ways of getting things done, but it works for him. The last Packard he chopped and sectioned was looking amazing. Never saw it finished though. I may have to look and see if it got completed.

Those look like b-body bushings. I would get hold of espo to get correct bushings.

That's just a 73-76 A body disc brake set up. Nothing special there. Every wear part should be available at your local parts store. Now the question is what are you going to do for the rear axle to make it the same bolt pattern?

Just heard it the other day. Of course, it was on the local college radio station.

I'm going to put Lizard skin sound deadener with Raptor liner on the floor of my wagon. I did it in my Jeep and it has heald up really well.

I think those will work better in 67-72 mopars than the early A's. Not that it can't be used, but it will definitely not be any kind of bolt in. I would just put a want ad up for an early column. You really only need the tube and collar. Just swap everything over from your old column...

I have a set of Moser big bolt A body 8.75 axles in my dart. They're made for use with the standard 10 x 1.75 brakes. I just had to re-drill the drums. Check the Moser web site. It's a bit more clear on what you'll need.