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:thumbsup: Heck I'm gonna try the high temp RTV that Rusty mentioned. I have some anyway. 40 years of success Rusty. Can't argue with that!

Hmm never thought of that. My brain was stuck like a hamster in a wheel on thread locker

Thanks. I guess I should have mentioned that temperature was my main concern in the OP. I know that thread locker would and will seal it, but could be a real bi+ch to remove later on down the road. I'll pick up some of that high temp sealant.

I've used it in for all my high pressure connections with hydraulic and air pressure. Thread locker is an excellent sealant, Check it out, it's pretty cool. What do you use for exhaust studs? My thinking is that the coolant should keep the thread locker from melting? But I'm not quite sure...

What should I use to stop water from leaking from the exhaust studs on small block heads? I've got a few ideas. Red thread locker, muffler cement (says it's good to 850f) JB weld (pretty darn permanent though) i have some thread sealant but I don't think it's high heat, at least it doesn't say...

So I have this air filter housing and I'm trying to find the correct air filter for it. Problem is I absolutely cannot remember where I got it from or what it came off of. I have some pictures, I thought it was off of a B250 so I ordered a filter for it but it didn't fit. PS are there any parts...

Interesting I got mine off of a B300. Also one set is from a 318 definitely one is shorter in length though. Can't remember which came off of what, I think the ones painted blue were from the 318.

So it was definitely an easy hook up after removing that pilot bushing. Thanks all. Sticking with the whole transmission hook up, would anyone have any pictures of these engine to transmission brackets? I have two sets, I believe there is a difference between the 273/318/340 braces and 360...

Nice! I love you see victory!

It would be a good idea, also a nice thing to do for the next guy. :thumbsup:

No. Curious as to why?

Well a little fun and a bit of brutality = success.

I ordered that Lisle 55600 tool. Should be here tomorrow. If it doesn't work I'll try the drill method. The Lisle website says it's for brass and bronze bushings not steel. I'm pretty sure the bushing is cast iron so hopefully it'll be able to bite a few threads.

Wow this thing looks promising! Ever tried it?

I tried several types but I probably gave up to early. It looks as though there's a small step down between the bushing diameter and the crank end diameter. So if I use a drift that will fit into the crank end the grease just pushes past the bushing, and if I use a drift that is snug in the...

Tried the slide hammer with blind bearing attachment. No dice, couldn't catch the lip of the bearing. I swear it's less than 1/32 gap between the bearing and the back of the crank. I will try the screw method later during the week. Thanks.

Yep I measured the hole that the bearing is in and the TC about should fit in there. I just gotta get the darn thing out. I tried grease and rags wadded up, no luck so far

Okay hold up a second here hold up a second. It's all starting to make sense now this engine came out of a truck with a manual transmission so that bushing is for a manual transmission so I'll have to do is remove it correct the brain is starting to work thanks guys!

Ok gotcha. I didn't realize that there were different diameter snout sizes on these. This is a 1990 block and crank. So I need to find a proper size torque converter or how do I remove the pilot bearing from the crank?

So it's been awhile I suppose, I'm trying to mount the transmission to the block but it seems like the center part of the torque converter is preventing it from mounting properly. I think it's hitting the crank before I can get it to sit tight?

Looks like I may be lucky. The original torque converter had the butterfly weight on it still has the weld marks. Which should make it very easy to locate the proper location.

Yeah agreed to a point. I guess it comes down to how well I feel about my skill level and the budget I've got figured in. Done a little digging, I've only read good stuff on the B&M flexplate. I suppose if you know you've got a decent TC the flexplate option is still a lot better than a new TC?!

I have a lock up torque converter from my 81 727 that was behind a 318. I was planning on using a torque converter from a 360 that I have.. I thought the torque converter from the 360 was a lock up as well but it is not. I'm using the transmission from the 318 for the 360. I know the 318 TC's...

Ok, well it's in the block but far from being fired up. I can easily remove it. If you get a chance whenever possible I'd appreciate it. Regards. :thumbsup:

What size pin would you use I think it's a 3/8" hole? Not really sure. I read somewhere possibly on for a bodies only, just use a drill bit and snap it of once it's through the shaft? I'm running some pretty heavy valve springs I currently have a HV pump in it but will be replacing it with a...

Update, I had the melonized gear from Hughes pressed onto a stock intermediate shaft at a local machine shop. They did not press a roll pin in it. He didn't think it should need it he said it needed over 1 ton of pressure to press it on. They did not have a roll pin from the factory. Just...

Cool. Thanks I never heard of McMaster Carr

Yes magnum manifolds on LA heads. I forgot about the water jacket intrusion. I was thinking is also easier to set the gaskets on the studs when mounting. But then again I've recently heard that early engines particularly 273 never used exhaust gaskets. Thanks I may just mount them with bolts...

Yep it's kinda nutty. There must be millions of magnum heads out there. What the heck are people using? I did some google machine research, found out that stainless can be used for exhaust manifold studs. Although you must use stainless nuts and washers There will be galling, at least that's...

Worth a shot, all they have is fully threaded 5/16 stainless. I could just buy some 5/16 stainless threaded rod from Lowe's or home Depot. Does anyone know if the bolts holding the manifolds have to be a finer thread on the rods? I'm guessing no, because the rest of the bolts will all be 5/16 x 18.