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Life like dummy in drivers seat asleep with gun in lap

The set tied up is a Rollmaster and the other is an old JP set both made in Australia .

Nothing like a quality gear set with positive marks, thats where id start .

Isn't it this dot that should be at 12

Great idea, made one similar to bleed brakes using your engine vacuum .

I added an inertia switch to my electric pump wiring, just some piece of mind incase i get caught in a wreck.

I'd try something like AN fitting male/male and get it tig'd on.

I turned a little off the arp stud with iron heads for this.

Have you considered giving it a go yourself, maybe get a friend's help if needed.

Cut mine open, cleaned, added a few internal gussets, knocked some dents out, put back together.

I'm sure they(ARP) have looked into the problem and probably came to the conclusion that ARP can't make a stud and nut that would fit in the space without machining the Cap any better than the factory Chrysler bolt strength wise, so if we want to use the Arp studs it's on us to make it work sort...

Got mine through Jegs in October 2014 and has plastic body same as above pic.

Mopardude318, I also forgot to mention was in order to get the idler pulley on I have to run a stack of washers on the threaded rod to stop the nut from bottoming out on the shank (must be a bolt then) that way I can get the idler fully collapsed/compressed, I then swing the idler up to the belt...

Running an 1190 belt with 2.5 top and 6" bottom pulley I had to shorten the threaded rod a bit to clear the belt and i keep a nylock nut at the very end just incase. I Also assemble the tensioner the way the other fella describes. It worked out i can swap top pulleys to 3 1/2" and longer belt...

Great song by Kansas Joe.

I'd be cautious of your new slinger fatiguing and developing cracks at the base of the blades, but wow i like the work you have put into it. I have a pretty patented slinger too.

Probably would have sounded better without the radiator fans running, you can hear the second fan cut in as i walk around.

Short clip with the bigger pulley. The belt is a Gates 6pk1190 i couldn't get the heavy duty or rpm blower belt in that size so it's just a standard belt. The thermostat housing has only got a very small lip almost nonexistent and doesn't go around the full 360 degree, ill take a few pics today...

Picked up a 1190 belt today to run the smaller pulley, what a world of difference it made, however I'll need sort out the thermostat housing and rad hose better as it blew the hose off on a hard run and made one helluva mess.

I've started marking my parts now, should have done it years ago as i have forgotten what some parts have came off. Also my kids will know what to do with them if i get hit by a bus.

That's a nice looking pulley he turned up for you. Thanks for the insight and pics, reading your comment on useing your brain a bit , it dawned on me to just run a cloth tape measure around the pulleys and an 1190 belt looks to be spot on for 6"- 2.5" pulleys. Cheers.

Mopardude, with your 10 rib kit, what did the crank pulley come as, drilled for mopar or just the three bolt holes and did it have a large boss on the back?

How much shorter do you think you'll need, did you need to shorten the threaded rod adjuster as well? And i see gates sell three types of belt, standard, heavy (green belt), and rpm for blower use, can you get away with a standard belt or use the blower belt only.

Mopardude318, what size belt did you use when you changed to the 2.5" pulley, ran my 144 today, and like yours it didn't register much on the gauge maybe 1.5 psi, swapped over to the small pulley but need a shorter belt.

Purchased this little fella in the mid to late 90's second hand, it's taken me to last week to see and hear it running, yes I've mocked it up a few times but now it's alive, been pissing down rain nonstop since the install so no road test yet, i figured I've waited this long so far whats...

Yeah me too , while in the local parts store i spotted the copper line and thought yeah why not--- well i know now, don't buy the cheap ones.

Ok so gauge is good , hooked up the nylon line and worked as should, i then hooked up the other copper line that i improved and symptoms came back , so anyone in Australia don't buy autobarn's copper line kit. Thanks to all who gave their thoughts of what it could be.

Yep just looking for my nylon tube to put that theory to rest

This is after i refitted the ends. Anyhow getting away from the problem my soldering job is not it.

just to clarify the oil line comes assembled with the ends soldered on, these are not the type that have the olives you slip over the tube and compress as you do the tube nut up. It was all i could get at the time.