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Mine has been thru a few stages. Bought it with a 340 4 speed and then built a 408 and added 727 and now its a 511 12.5:1 727/5500 4.10 gear street/strip deal and runs 10.06@134 with a Dominator. It is now a tunnel ram deal for now and will be a 572 Hemi deal in a few years with everything back...

Yes, i heard all the BS old tales, they are totally non streetable, soft on the bottom end, load up in traffic, low on torque. Non of this was true in my experience. cold start i give it one full throttle pump then hit the button. Fires right up and practically idles on its own. Once warmed up...

Got some new lids on mine. I like them alot.

Got some new lids on mine. I like them alot.

Your project looks real good. I ordered the Stage 5's from Tim and the block real soon.

Yes, aluminum. Iron would be a problem.

Yep, either guy, but i do like Tim a bit more for being forgiving with the info.

If Tim wouldn't have mentioned that BM block leaking all over the place and some slitting up the middle my choice would be much better. I know Tim has his own cnc programs for these heads too. Who do you sells a better head to better match our combos? I have been told Hemi's are good on good...

I was gonna use the Bill Mitchell aluminum block and Tim was completely against that block telling me the sleeves move around and the caps would stay in place either, Ray said nothing negative about that same block.

Ok, just curious. Barton wouldn't give me any numbers, but Tim said his custom for my application has a 241cc port and flows 471cfm. I'm just trying to get the best head for my app. Thanks

Barton told me the replacement head was no longer available and wanted to sell me the custom stage v with stock valve. Any idea what the port size and flow numbers are?

Nice, what cubic inch is it? What Stage v heads did Barton sell you? I'm in the early stages of building a 572 Hemi and gonna get the heads ordered next week. I am not sure who to purchase from, Barton or FHO.

Mattax has you going in the right direction. When tuning any carb for the first time always get brand new plugs it in first, then get your timing at idle correct and you would want something in the low 20*s without vac advance with that cam imo. Then get the total set at about 35* without vac...

yes, thats what you want. go easy with it, take your time and set the clutch on your drill to mid way. you dont want to break a bit in there.

I honestly dont remember. i would have to look at my drill bits to know, but you just need to ream them out. I used next size bit thou.

Only motor i did not put full groove main bearings in blew up on the dyno. No saying it was the bearings, but im superstitious.

I used Molnar crank and rods in my 400 block and did not have to chamfer bearings. I used Clevite P series 876p full groove bearings. Everyone said i would have to chamfer, but i seen no issues on assembly or now with 4 seasons on the motor.

Only oil mods i made on my street/strip 511 were drill the oil galleys #2-#5 to next size. Mine had some slag in them and drilling made a nice round hole to the mains. I used a Milodon pump, I think volume is better than pressure. I used a windage tray and thats the only mods i made. Been...

If you want heads you can bolt on right out of the box, than the Trickflow 240 would be your best bet. They will make all the power you want in that combo without porting.

No, but thanks. Wilwood said if primarily racing a 1" bore is what you want and a 15/16 if mostly street. I'm street/strip and found a buy on the 15/16. I think it will be fine.

Spoke with Wilwood today. They need your brake pedal ratio and the piston sizes in the calipers and or wheel cylinders. I have the 10" Abody 10.75 front disc kit and 11" Dana rear(1.8754"). They suggest a 15/16 or 1" bore MC. I found a slightly used Wilwood MC 260-13375P with 15/16 bore...

Thanks guys and i will give Wilwood a call to get their opinion as well.

Ok, I'm looking to up date my current master cylinder with 1 1/8 bore to a wilwood MC.

3400# A body with 511, 10" Wilwood discs on front and 11" Dana drums on rear. Whats needed for bore size on the master cylinder?

cool, glad you got it.

Does that get addressed just by using a longer valve?

Nice set ups. 12.5:1 511

Not sure you can buy those levers in a longer size. I tried everything with the lingcage i could think of to no good outcomes. You only notice the higher pedal first time you drive it. Can longer tell any difference. No big deal and full throttle no problem.

I'm waiting for J.Rob to post his pics with his mods on the ProComp's he's working on and PBR's friend to post some time slips. Should be interesting.

Yeah, i understand there are many pieces to the puzzle for sure. I was just curious if my VMW heads would be capable even with all the correct parts.