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Would it matter if I have the 5 pin box instead of the 4 pin?

The Chinese one is gone. I replaced it with a factory style one. Air gap on the pickup is right around .008 which is what my shop manual says is correct

1: If I understand correctly the box should ground itself to the body through the mounting bolts. Both are good grounds and I checked them with my test light. 2: I don’t have a volt meter to be 100% sure but at both the resistor and the coil positive the light on my test light is noticeably...

So I finally got my new 360 into my dart and have been trying to fire it up but have not been able to get spark. It had a jury rigged ignition/charging wiring job with a Chinese standalone distributor back when it had the 318 in it and I rewired it to be all factory Chrysler electronic style...

Well I finished the 360 yesterday afternoon! Got held up a couple days by the summit brand oil pan I bought, the pan rails were warped to hell so I exchanged it for a milodon one. Worth the price difference. Better quality and it’s baffled too. Today I’ll be starting on the 904 so I’m hoping...

The ductile iron ones have a wider “footprint” on the valve stem end of the rocker tip so I’m guessing they have more room for error so to speak and are more geared towards a heavy duty stock replacement type application. This not at all a race motor, just a truck 360 with a bit more cam, intake...

Well thanks for your help everyone, I’m gonna run my crane setup. I just figured both were free and if I could make these work they might make me a tiny bit happier with less weight in the valvetrain. I know these rockers will make zero difference in power but I believe there is no such thing as...

that’s where I’ve seen them before on small block fords. They used those in place of a more traditional guide plate setup.

the pushrods are pretty much in line with the arms. I’ve dealt with self aligning arms before but that was on a ford. I never messed with a shaft mount setup like this before.

Guess I’ll be using my crane setup then. That has everything with it and doesn’t appear to need shims/spacers.

If springs will work I have a complete set I can steal from my set of crane iron rockers. I’d just rather run these aluminum ones.

So I’m installing the valve train on my new 360 and my dart had came with 2 sets of rocker arms I could use. Trying to use the aluminum roller setup and the arms appear to be self aligning with the tabs on either side of the roller tip and spacers to keep the arms from contacting the shaft hold...

After a little more automotive detective work I figured out the compression situation situation wasn’t as bad as I had originally thought but still not great. Checking the piston at TDC i found that it was about .085 in the hole. So with a .039 compressed head gasket thickness and assuming a...

Well it appears I have reached an impass. These flat tops sit right at about .100 in the hole...so the cam I want to run will absolutely kill the dynamic compression in this thing and be a pig. I get 8.5:1 with a 70cc chamber and a .040 gasket thickness. So now I’m gonna have to call up the...

Yesterday I got the rod bearing clearances and ring gaps checked and the rods/pistons home in the block. Ring gaps were .013-.015 on the tops and .019-.020 on the second rings. Bearing clearances on the rods checked out at .0015 across the board. Pistons sit fairly far down in the holes still...

Got the crank in today. I’d be further along but I got a wild hair and deburred all the nasty looking rough castings in the lifter valley... I also took the time to clean up the rough casting spots on the crank and deburr every sharp edge on the counterweights that I could find. All...

Well I picked up the rest of my 360 stuff down at the machine shop. I installed the cam bearings and freeze plugs in the block yesterday and gave it a coat of paint. Gonna start on the short block today.

Rewiring this to be right isn’t my issue, I’m just a terrible diagnostician when it comes to things not being where they should and shoddy PO wiring jobs. I’m reasonably competent and always wire things in nice and neat with clear seal connectors and heat shrink tubing. I know solder is the...

I really couldn’t say where that connector is supposed to be, that part of my harness is off my parts car as it still had the factory ignition intact. And I just stripped everything off the car and sent it packing. I think my 73 factory manual has a simplified ignition schematic I can use...

At this point the car is t really nice enough to dump the money into that. If I can work with what I got to make it functional and safe for cheap that’s what I’m gonna do.

So I started to dive into trying to make my ignition wiring right today and found out just how strangely some previous owner butchered it. The car ran and appeared to charge when I first got it but the factory ignition module and ballast resistor were completely eliminated from the system. As...

This car came with a 2.5 inch relatively new exhaust with super 44 flow masters. I’ll be making it a bit nicer but reusing it. My cougar has 3 inch true duals with super 44’s and I love it. Those mufflers dumped at the rear axle towards the tires are kinda my trademark among my hot rod buddies...

I’m hoping I’ll be pleasantly surprised by what this dart will do in the 1/4 mile. I’m sure it won’t even be close to hanging with the cougar but I think it’d be fun to surprise some people on the street that think it’s just a rusty old POS.

Well yesterday I ran down to the machine shop and they were just finishing up my block. The heads were done so I took em home and gave them a good coat of Chrysler hemi orange! I still have to tap and plug the EGR holes in the exhaust ports but that’ll take no time at all and I wanted to...

Bet your *** I do! Haha I don’t really see the point in owning an old muscle car if you’re not gonna go out and flog on it!

Awesome! I race with 2 brothers that both have 69 cougars, kinda how we got to know each other actually. Both are strictly race but not to the point of unable to be taken back to street trim. I’m not there yet but 2-3 years ago I was running low 14’s. But a couple torque converters, cams, heads...

Ive had mine for going on 6 years now. It’s the first real muscle car I’ve owned and the car that gave me the drag racing bug. I bought it as a bone stock 289 2bbl car and now it’s got a rowdy 357 Cleveland and does low 12’s in the 1/4 mile. Next to its ugly little brother the dart.

Well it’s been a little while since I last posted. I had been slowly plugging away on the interior and been busy helping another buddy with a project car of his, but the last few days have been a big push to get the inside all finished up and I’m fairly pleased with the results. Actually having...

I pulled the transmission pan off the car last night to find all this. There are some pretty big chunks in there that look like clutch/band material so it looks like it’s time for a rebuild. I had only planned on putting a shift kit in it originally but after seeing all that in the bottom of...

Well I’ve been busy on the Dart the last couple days. I picked up a Hobart welder and some sheet metal from the hardware store to make some patch panels for the bad spots in the floor. The passenger side footwell was really bad. So I made a cardboard template to cover most of the bad area...