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The crappy blue cooler and everything in post 10 is gone...

I think I have one coming, I'll let you know if it falls through!

thanks cudamark, I updated my wanted ad!

Just need the latch, willing to separate and ship?

Here's a shot of one from my '67...

The latch in the door, not the striker on the pillar.

Ok, time for a new latch. Am I correct in thinking that any '67-up left side latch will fit? Here's my want ad: [WANTED] - Driver Door Latch

In need of a driver door latch for my '68 Dart. I have been advised that it would be best to get one from a '68!

Brand new Flow Kooler water pump, NOS Melling oil pump kit, Stack of head gaskets, a few misc gasket sets, etc. More stuff coming out of the woodwork...

Bring a trailer!

Thanks for the interest guys. Shipping is a significant cost for packing, etc. Additionally it's a 40 mile round trip for me to drop stuff off. On top of that, every big ticket item I knock off the list significantly reduces my chance of moving the lot. "Giveaway" prices only apply if...

Most of this stuff is too cheap to be worth shipping or to heavy to do so economically so for pickup only... LOTS of /6 stuff! Aluminum 225 /6 engine complete, seized. Late model 225 /6 engine complete, not seized. '67 225 /6 engine/904 auto seized, still in car, all bolts removed ready to...

The driver door latch on my 68 Dart is floppy. It flops closed when the door is open so when you close the door BANG!!!! against the closed latch. It's quite annoying. Is there an easy fix?

I like this one better than that one... Lunati Voodoo Camshafts 10200703

I use a local/regional Parker Hannefin dealer/hose shop to make AC lines. They stock fittings, can crimp hoses and can also weld aluminum fittings. Useful for doing stuff like you're talking about. I usually take the car up there so the hoses can be crimped in the correct orientation!

I find it's much more convenient to move the aluminum intake around wether it's attached to an exhaust manifold or not! It's much lighter...

Thanks all for the "X" ratings, got what I wanted! Post closed!

No thanks, specifically looking for the LD4B. Ok guys, I edited the first post. When I said "may do some trading on" I didn't mean a straight up trade. There will have to be some cash or extra parts on your end. Value isn't comparable on a LD4B and a LD340...

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Looking for a LD4B intake. I have a nice LD340 I may do some trading on (cash on your end), it's been painted but otherwise nice. Let me know what you've got...

I used to have a 7D cell Mag, it was more useful as a weapon than as a flashlight. I left it at a party one night, didn't want it back after where it'd been :eek:

I only use Streamlight now. I have a little one that fits in my pocket, mini USB rechargable. It's made a few trips through the washer and dryer, it doesn't seem to mind. I keep a full sized Stinger in the truck, wire up a charger/mount in the console. Another Stinger mount/charger by the...

Start the ring in the land and roll it around. Start at the bottom and work your way up. Try not to "flex" the ring, just spiral it on down into the land. If you're buying a full set of extra rings you'll have plenty to practice with!

Nice, now take it to a wrap shop and get it wrapped in "chrome" vinyl!

As stated in the title. Looking for the A body small block OD 833 bellhousing. Also looking for associated clutch linkage and shifter. I have the transmission and pedals, nothing else...

More rings are broken by those crap spreader tools than anything else. Just roll them on like a real man. Extra points for installing pistons without a ring compressor. I build lots of engines of all sizes from small 2 strokes to big V8's and everything in between. I don't own a ring...

Yes, that's a Carter BBS

OP posted a question i the /6 forum regarding upgrading his '64 Valiant to a 2 barrel carburetor. Safe to assume it's a /6. Doesn't matter if it's a 170 or a 225, a 2 barrel (or 4 barrel for that matter) isn't going to fix his issues. He needs a competent person (could be anyone, including...