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Here’s the amount of play it has So I hit the woodruff couple times with a hammer on the front end and now the play is gone so I guess problem solved

A little bit almost like either the woodruff key is to small or the slot in the gear is to big I’ll measure it when I get home later. It’s probably no more than 2-3 thousands of slop. Just enough to wiggle a tiny bit

Should there be any resistance? It floating on by hand is okay then.

Putting together a 1969 383 and was about to do the timing chain when I noticed the crank timing gear slides right onto the crank. No tapping required. Should it be tighter fit? I know the damper will probably tighten it up but still thought it would need a hammer to put it in place.

sorry yeah Big block

looking for .528 cam seems like there no making them anymore

that what i decided to go with order them Sunday night!

no I think I don't really know what a budget build is lol. that definitely seems to be the consensus

the machinist recommend replacing them so I kinda just went with it. the motor came with 16 pistons so i got connecting rods that for sure

building my first motor a 383 and came into a dilemma. its a budget build and don't know what rods to get. the two ones i was looking at were the 440 source factory replacement and the eagle H beam. what like some opinions on it!

end goal is around 500 horse power daily driver that will go to the strip every once and a while

I found a 1969 727 core that I was gonna pick up for my 383 build. is it worth it to build them or should I wait and find a 1971 and up to build? I do plan on abusing the dart.

I just ordered to steely 15X7 with 4”bs for the rear of my 1970 dart swinger. It still has the 7.25 rear ended with XHD leafs springs. Will 255/60r15 work without moving the leafs? Or should I play it safe with some 245/60r15s

Sadly I got to have 15s for the brakes I'm gonna use

looking for 2 15X7 with SBP for my 70 dart in the Portland, Oregon area.

yeah that’s went I really meant

I understand now. me and my underdeveloped teenage brain thought that the water jacket opening on the head was suppose to be completely cover when I mocked it up with the DP4B .:BangHead:

But aren’t the intake manifolds different from the 383 to 440?

I’m just now going into the world of big blocks as I prepare for my first motor build. I have 383 and am on the path right now to figure out what heads to use. I currently have a set of 452 but want to use my vintage DP4B manifold and I know the 452 are for a RB. Now I feel a bit dumb but are...

Yeah my friend mentioned doing that was going to try it tomorrow and if that failed wanted to have a back up plan

Looking for a SBP 10 inch front drum hub for my daily driver my RF race spins!

at least not yet lol

that is a valid point I guess I was worried that cutting the swedge could affect the integrity of the stud or something.

I am planning on putting on some new 10inch drums this week and was going to use a 5/8 whole saw to cut the swedged off to remove the hub but can I then reuse the old studs afterword's or should I replace them?

when I go to replace the 7 1/4 I will add a shim should get me closer to the right Thrust angle

yeah I tried flipping the front tires like the others said didn’t really affect anything. It’s only 7 1/4 so not worth messing with and I also plan on V8 swap with 8 3/4 in the future. Probably should just start looking for one!

Okay okay I get it I need better photograph skills

I’m gonna go to my work tomorrow and get them swapped and balanced will keep you guys posted

Yeah it probably is just tire pull when I was balancing one was bent but I forgot what one

You think the 0.5 would do that?