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Hmm, curious. I'm guessing it isn't an NOS unit? Just out of curiosity, are the drier fittings o-ring or flare? What were the pressures before and after you removed refrigerant? Good to hear! Yeah, voltage drops caused by multiple switches and small wiring are a common cause of clutch...

Jim, not sure if you missed my post on 21 May: with the engine running at 1500RPM, does the sight glass clear up? Or at least show minimal bubbles?

Interesting. Again, 85°F isn't hot, but those pressures seem low. Especially he discharge pressure. The system sounds undercharged to me. When running at around 1500RPM, does the sight glass ever clear up?

Is the condenser tube and fin, or serpentine?

If it's a 1976 and has a V-configuration compressor, then it should be an RV2. The V2 was replaced by the RV2 in the early 60's, IIRC.

You're using the original condenser? Is it serpentine, or tube and fin? What are the pressures? I'm just amazed, because I haven't seen many R-134a retros using the stock tube and fin condensers that worked that well and didn't have sky-high discharge pressure.

Make sure it is an RV2 compressor. IIRC, some Chrysler vehicles had dealer-installed AC systems that used a different (York?) compressor. It's easy to tell if its the right one: if it's a "V" configuration, it's an RV2 ;-)

That is odd. With the EPR, a low pressure cutout won't protect against evaporator freeze. It will shut down the system if you lose most or all of the charge, but that's all. I will have to go back and watch the relevant Chrysler Master Tech videos. They talk about which vehicles used the EPR...

I thought all systems had an evap temp switch, including those using an EPR. EPR's have a setpoint of around 24psi at low load, give or take a psi or two. At that pressure, the saturated temp of R-12 is well below freezing. The reason the evaporator usually doesn't freeze is the temperature drop...

Ahh. OK. That means the Duster was originally a cycling clutch system, not an EPR system. I don't recall off the top of my head which models used which systems, but I do recall that the higher-end and/or large sedans used the EPR while more compact and/or mid-range vehicles used clutch cycling...

The pressure drop probably isn't too bad. I'm surprised that you don't have a Schrader port on the suction manifold where it bolts to the compressor body? You must be using a line set from a non-EPR vehicle? I'd get the best measurements that you can. A slightly inaccurate measurement is better...

I would highly recommend running the OE RV2 compressor. The typically retrofitted Sanden not only looks out of place, but it doesn't have the refrigerating capacity of the RV2. Granted, NJ isn't the hottest place in the US, but I still wouldn't want to downgrade the AC from OE.

Not surprising. The original hoses were made of nitrile. It was determined back in the early 90's, when systems were being studied to determine what steps would be necessary to retrofit an R-12 system to R-134a, that nitrile hoses which had seen at least a season of use would have absorbed...

Your mention about holding vacuum for 24hrs is notable. I have long been a proponent of keeping R-12 in any system that was originally R-12, especially of you want to use the original condenser. Many balk about the cost, but in the scheme of things the cost of a full charge of R-12 isn't that...

Unless the superheat is way off, I would leave the valve alone. They are adjusted from the factory for an appropriate amount of superheat, and the difference in superheat with R-134a will only be a degree or two at most. Not enough to worry about. For the enlightenment of those who wonder about...

What is the condition of your compressor? Assuming it hasn't gotten moisture in it and the cylinders, crank journals, and valve plates are in good condition, you likely only need to re-seal it. Gasket and shaft seal kits are readily available for the RV2. If you haven't taken it apart yet, you...

OK, just to verify, your first measurement is 0.0665" (0.067" rounded up), 2.306", and 1.356". Is that correct? Assuming so, that makes the displacement π(2.306÷2)²×(1.356-0.067)×2=10.7669=10.77in².

OK, first of all your pressures are quite low. Here's the problem: at 57°F ambient the saturated pressure of R-134a is only 53.6psi. You are showing about 103psi on the high side, which corresponds to a condensing temp of only 89°F. If you try to add refrigerant to bring your pressures up, you...

Ah, I see. Unfortunately, I couldn't find one online. Call these guys: Air Components & Manufacturing Inc | Automotive Air Conditioning Parts. Ask them is they can order that part. Make sure they know it is a UAC manufactured part so they can contact their appropriate supplier. They are likely...

What are the pressures like? Check your fan clutch. Your condenser will be a problem, but the system should still work OK-ish unless the fan clutch is shot. Don't ditch it, FIX IT! Any compressor with the RV2's capacity is going to use the same amount of power, contrary to what you have heard...

Are you certain? The buyers guide in UAC's site lists it as being for a 73-74 Valiant, Duster, and Dart. Unfortunately they don't have a pic, nor do they list dimensions. That makes it impossible to determine if it's the right part, or if it could be made to work at all. I found some tube and...

No prob. I appreciate it!

Thanks Wolfgang! I actually plan to compile information on various auto AC system components and document the advantages and disadvantages of different systems and components. Not to mention correcting some very bad info that is out there. Having accurate info on these older compressors would be...

Eh, I'm not sure I understand what you're saying. The seal seat is the metal part with the o-ring, which installs into the front bearing retainer housing. The finely lapped side of that seal seat faces, and contacts, the carbon piece that is on the shaft seal assembly. The carbon seal looks just...

How expensive is it? Reason I ask is that universal parallel flow condensers are pretty reasonably priced and available in many sizes and configurations. Go to this link: Welcome to UAC and under "NA Types" select "Condensers". Under "NA Categories" select "Condenser". And under "NA Sub...

Wish I had been here back when you posted this. I would've saved you from a likely horrid reman. Parts for these compressors, and indeed complete NOS compressors, can be had on Ebay. Just looked today and found one NOS valve plate for the RV2, SIX! NOS RV2 compressors, and virtually every NOS...

The I just wanted to correct a misconception: the RV2 isn't really a "power hog", it just seems that way. The amount of shaft power needed to drive a compressor depends on the compressor's displacement, volumetric efficiency, isentropic efficiency, mechanical efficiency, all else being equal...

On the contrary, you MUST oil the lapped surface and the carbon seal with refrigeration oil. What you don't want on there are acids from your skin. They can (supposedly) etch the lapped surface and create a small amount of leakage. Whether that is really a risk of the unit is going to go into...

It actually looks like the stroke is 1-¼". You measured 1-5/16" from the piston to the deck at BDC. At TDC you didn't provide a measurement, but it looks like the piston is about 1/16" below the deck. That would make the stroke 1-¼". If your calipers have the capability of measuring depth...

The side with the lapped surface faces the carbon ring. Use nitrile or neoprene gloves to handle the seal components. Make sure you oil the o-ring and the bore in the front bearing retainer where the o-ring seals. As Wolfgang mentioned, you can use a socket to press on the seal seat (that is...