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The reason the bushings don’t align is the tubes are turned and welded to the ball joint end crooked and that makes the geometry of this arm different than the other. I know it bolts on to the car with two bolts, but their other arm is flat and the bushings align perfectly, so if that’s not...

I never said I wasn’t willing to return the part, the issue is they don’t care about making it right for the customer. If I want a replacement I am to wait for them to have another production run in a few months, forget the fact they made it wrong. And any time I tried to explain to them it...

Nope, that’s the company I will probably go with instead though.

The A arm in question.

Manufacturer in the pacific NW.

Purchased brand new tubular upper A arms for my Duster from a reputable company and one is welded incorrectly to where the bushings do not align with each other by a noticeable amount. A half inch rod thru bushing one hits bushing two 3/4” off the center of the hole. Called the company and...

I am also running an E-body sport steering wheel on a tuff wheel hub in my 72 Duster. I had the tuff wheel in there first, but with 16:1 manual steering that extra diameter on the E body steer wheel is nice. Another bonus is a lot better view of the gauges than tuff wheel especially in a turn...

That spring is never going to work, that shackle is too far from ever being vertical that you are correct, it will try to pop back against the body if it gets a chance. When the car is lifted and suspension is in droop the shackle should do no more than align with the spring. Did you buy those...

It took me 3 years to fully repair/restore my 1972 Duster including all summer to sort out the rest of the inconsistencies during drives. I did not touch body work at all, just everything else! Lol On my Duster, that was an argument on why it was a good decision to buy a car that had a wiring...

The real problem isn’t the actual building, it’s the making everything fit together from original parts, to reproduction parts, to aftermarket upgrade components, and including the dreaded “universal fit” parts lol. Forget if you start with a car that was worked over, now you add in the “This...

I went thru this on my 1972 Duster. I ended up piecing it together from what was in the car already pieced together and B body bucket seat belt set. What I learned was A body front seat belt retractors are specific to A body, B body does not fit around the seats. The rest of the B body seat...

Oh, one thing to add is my oil pressure on a fairly freshly rebuilt 340 engine is 50-60 psi parked running and then 40 psi running down the road most times and if engine is pulled down by transmission when on the brakes after warmed up on a hot day and running 3800 rpm on the highway, 20 psi...

First thing I would do is a full brake job as that could reveal a scraping noise such as thrown pad lining, broken spring flopping around in the drum, or even the hubs actual cap having fallen off the hub and rattling around in the wheel hubcap. Second, check suspension bushings and ball...

I like the sometimes wider availability of the larger wheel size tires, but the short sidewalls aren’t for me either, and not in West Virginia, with sometimes rough roads and potholes. My 2016 Ram 1500 came with 20” rim stock and I went with a Load range E oversized from factory sized Load...

These will fit Duster, Demon, Dart Sports when installing bucket seats. Will probably fit other A body’s when installing bucket seats but those for sure.

It’s ironic that everyone swears by AMD and they got a simple piece of reproduction 4” square metal plate… just wrong enough… to make one drill new holes in 2 of them just so they work.

That is my assumption, but I didn’t like that even though once carpet is down you never see them…and once I was marking and drilling holes in the AMD plates all I could think about was how much I wish I had bought those 2 hole plates instead lol.

Anyone skeptical about the 2 hole reinforcement plates, I bought the AMD 1 hole plates and on the passenger side had to drill new holes in the two plates near the hump or the plates were worthless. These would be by far the better plates to buy, as they have holes where I ended up drilling new...

I am running Mastercraft Avenger G/T all around with 255/60R15 on 15x8 out back and 215/65R15 on 15x7 up front and 32 to 34 psi. All wheels are 0 offset wheels. Current issue I’m up against is after a nice drive today I found a squirrelly steering scenario… might be time for aftermarket upper A...

I searched the forum first, can not find an opinion on this. Under the hood I have been using Duplicolor Matte Black caliper paint left over from calipers and $15 can so thought sure, engine accessory brackets this will work. It lays down nice and even and has a nice flat to satin look, then I...

I shall add my 3 cents (inflation). The debate of the modern 17+ wheel is multi fold and one’s goals and budget dictate all. However, running a 15” tire on the correct width 15” wheel and proper inflation on a rebuilt suspension with fresh 340 HD 6 leaf springs and 1.03” PST torsion bars gives...

What is most important? a) Kit that fits b) Kit that stops c) Kit that you can go buy brake parts over the counter later (such as pads) d) Brand prestige I installed 1973 disc brake spindles on my 1972 Duster to bolt on all the factory correct style 1973 11” power disc brake system with rear...

My bad, I was thinking it was the same as my 1972 Duster, did not notice we were working on an older A body cluster that was differently regulated.

If the regulator is not the same as factory and has been changed to electronic, is it possible it got fried in the process of messing with stuff? I fried my Pertronix electronic ignition module during circuit testing the new harness and why my cluster lights were not working… so bad things...

The regulator is at the top of the circuit board and plugs in with spade tangs made onto it. Should be a couple inches long and sit off the board a bit.

Something to know about Inline Tube proportioning valves is you must replace the copper sealing washer with a new one as the Inline original copper washers are not pliable enough to seal and will leak no matter how much torque you put on them. But once you replace that copper washer you are...

Definitely never know when you need small block drivetrain. I definitely kept my small block 727 that was in the car when I swapped in a built 727 and higher stall converter. The small block 727 is not exactly as plentiful as big block 727s.

I converted my 1972 Duster with 10” drum brakes to 1973+ 11” disc brake’s including the 73+ disc spindles and upper A arms. It was entirely bolt on, just have to add in front end alignment, but my lower A arm bushings were toasted anyway so I would have had to do that anyway. I basically...

It is keyed to fit only one way. If your temp and fuel gauges worked before and not now then the path to ground thru the different sending units Could be the issue. I would verify 12 volt power to the regulator on the back of the cluster. Beyond that regulator it is not a constant 5v reading...

Nice score there. What are you bolting it into?