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The new 8AWG wiring is in, along with a 40A in-line maxi-style fuse. A punched a hole in the firewall near the existing pass-through for the hood release cable and used a grommet to secure the wire. The wire terminated at the ammeter. The old cable was removed from under the hood and all the...

The battery was failing to turn the engine over Saturday morning after several attempts to start, so I put it on my Schumacher smart charger (AGM mode) on Sunday and it was reading 100% charge by Monday evening. It was likely ready long before then but I didn’t check it since I knew that I...

You are right about my megger comment. My grognard maintenance guru assumed that I wanted to supply high voltage to find resistance (which is what a megger does) when I really wanted to simulate a load and test for resistance (aka voltage drop). Kudos to you and apologies from me. I keep...

I mostly agree, and I hope you don't take this as a criticism. On the contrary, I greatly appreciate your help. It wasn't until I made my original post and received the first round of suggestions that I remembered how to do a proper voltage drop test. :thankyou: The voltage drop test assumes...

During the initial key-off voltage drop test, I'd assume that nearly zero current was flowing. Switching the key to "run" caused the blower fan to come on (it was set to Lo speed) and possibly the interior lights (driver's door was open, most of the lights have LED bulbs in them, so low...

Thanks for the help so far. Here's an update: I performed the voltage drop test and I found an issue. With the key off, I got a 0 voltage drop from the battery to the alternator, which should cover the whole circuit. However, when I went to each of the components (relay, fusible link...

These were all disconnected below the seats when I bought the car. I don't think anything was touched or changed regarding this, but I can take a look.

A couple of thoughts on my next steps: 1. Measure the voltage drop across several sections of the wiring, to see if I have a bad connector. Ideally, I'd do this with the engine running (and high current flowing), but I can't start the ol' gal up as-is. I'll check the negative battery to several...

I don't believe that I talked to you about a 1974 manual, unless it was over on the SlantSix forum site. In any case, I remembered that I had purchased a complete set of digital manual from Detroit Iron a few months ago and had not gotten around to downloading it yet. But I fixed that and now I...

My 74 Valiant had a faulty ignition switch (it wouldn't send 12V to the starter relay), so we replaced it with a new unit. That one was faulty from the start (you had to hold the key juuuuust right to get the starter to turn on), so we made arrangements for a replacement. I hooked up one of...

I’ll give it a try. I have a homemade smoke maker. How do I use it to test the vac system?

The manifold vacuum nipple has 2 outlets, one smaller than the other. I'd have to check to be 100% sure, but I believe that one goes to the HVAC vacuum reservoir and one goes to the vacuum amplifier.

I disconnected the wire going to the AC compressor and moved all of the levers to various climate settings. The blower fan came on as expected, but the compressor never came on. The car didn't stall. I plugged in the compressor wire and the compressor kicked in. The car did not stall. I moved...

Well, you know what they say about "assume", right. I for sure made an *** outta me. ;-)

I'll take your word for it. I'm just a shade-tree mechanic and I've always used the sight glass and a set of gauges to work on my AC systems. I'm always willing to learn new info, so thanks for educating me.

Will do. In the meantime, I checked the timing last night. At about 800RPM, with the vacuum advance line removed and plugged, I'm at about 14 degrees. Using a hand vacuum pump, the timing scales up to around 23 with 12 to 15 inches of vacuum applied (and the RPMs jump to roughly 1000, too). At...

In hindsight, it was a lot of Freon. However, in my defense, the available information on how much 134a to use in a conversion from R-12 is not readily available.

I just went for a drive to get the tires rotated. Waiting at a red light, I moved the fan switch from off to low. Stalled. The AC selector switch was set to vent so the compressor should be off. Something is very much off here

OSAC has been disabled since I got her running a year ago. Dan’s posts on the slant six forum really helped for that. All vacuum hoses were new a year ago. The only fouled piece was the plug on the charcoal canister which I replaced with a new plug. AC was at 350psi high and 35 low. My notes...

My '74 Valiant loves to stall when I have the AC on when I'm stopped at a red light or stop sign, and then I ease off the brake and onto the throttle. I've bumped up the idle quite a bit, but it still does this. I'm thinking my v-style compressor may be overcharged with refrigerant. Any other...