Search results for query: *

From his previous vids he has a pressure transducer threaded into the passenger valve cover. He stated when he blew a head gasket previously that he saw pressure increase. Didn’t state what it went to but that he did know exactly in the run when it blew. Seems like he stated when he went into...

I’m pretty sure it’s timing that kills them. All the SBE LS guys have figured it out. Pull a couple degrees at MBT where cylinder pressure is the highest and it’s a lot less stressful on everything. I think a lot of mopar guys just want to jam a bunch of timing in them cause obviously it makes...

So far no. And I’ve driven roughly 2hrs non stop with stop and go traffic.

I have my coils mounted to the “belly” of the block on each side where the truck motor mounts would bolt on. Works great for me and gives plenty of room for the downpipe at the valve cover. Only thing is now it’s a pain to pull the valve cover without unbolting the downpipe.

Looks like you went from idle to 3600ish in about a second. Was this on the brake or just whacking the throttle? Looks like CL comp is adding fuel causing an overly rich condition. I realize this is 2sec into the run but afr can really play a part in spool time and laziness down track. I would...

You definitely want to get it on the chip. Thats how you really start to build boost. I typically don’t pull any timing until I’m on the 2step, if the converter is tight and the motor doesn’t have any nuts it’s sometimes hard to get it to the chip initially with a bunch of timing yanked out of...

I’m with 85glht. When you take power out and pick up .3 and only lose 1mph that screams converter is too loose. I’d rather it be too tight and just try to smack it in the *** on the 2step to overcome it trying to drag the motor down that way you’ll have good slip numbers in high gear.

Lean out the primary to bring the cruise into check. You will probably have to open up the PVCR’s once you do this as it will probably be lean at WOT.

@RogerRamRod yes that’d be fine. You just need some electrical switch to close so the brake will energize. It doesn’t care if it’s momentary or constant. I know it won’t work in your application, but I use the Holley efi software to turn on the Transbrake when in “neutral” so I can back up...

Yes the fluid passages use a new billet plate. Where your ~1.5”x2.5” plate that states 22XODLU is is where the Transbrake solenoid would go which. Call cope and ask for the Transbrake plate and solenoid. All that is is a fluid passage and with a solenoid in place your blocking fluid to that...

I have a cope Transbrake valvebody as well. You actually do have neutral. You get reverse by holding the Transbrake button while in neutral. 4th is operated like previously mentioned with the manual valve. Very simple. The valvebody didn’t “trash” his transmission unless there was something...

I used 1” rigid conduit cut to length and a piece of 1/2” key stock with a hole drilled in it so I could slip my caliper depth gauge through. Worked fine in my application. You also don’t need the “assembly shaft” either. Use your intermediate shaft and build the OD Section first then pull it...

Good ole “lean manufacturing” it’s a crock. We do it as well and with no overstock you can put yourself in a very serious bind if a line goes down that has “rush metal” I hate it

Biggest difference is shaft rockers on LA and pedestal style on magnum. Oil through pushrods on magnum and deck/head oiling on LA. Basically every part between the 2 series will interchange. You just have to be mindful of what you’re changing and the steps you need to take to make it work.

Myself as well as every turbo ls guy that has 2 nickels to rub together have had good luck with the evil energy ptfe stuff. So far I have had zero issues with it. Good fittings, assembles nice, and I had zero leaks. The entire car was done with this stuff. -8 supply -6 return y block at the fuel...

Ahh internet gold. I’ve been waiting for this. Can’t wait to see the outcome!

9.5” PTC FOR 727. Has weights for external balance 360. Can knock the weight off and run behind your internal balance engine. Has anti balloon plate etc. flashed 4800 behind a decent la-x headed engine in a 3700lb e-body with 3.55 gears. Total of 30ish street miles and 10 passes. $650 shipped to...

“Stock”

as much as any good built 904. They are a 904 front half and the OD section is the same from an a500 All the way to a 48re add or subtract some clutches/steels depending on the model. You really don’t need to add a bunch of OD clutches as I don’t know too many with cars that are gonna beat on...

this is interesting that they say they can build them with triple discs. I inquired with John Cope about WOT lockup function when I purchased my valve body from him and he stated that the single disk converter would slip (obviously) but he didn't state that triple disc options were available...

I think you interpreted that incorrectly. he is running an R3 due to the ritter being a pile of scrap iron from core shift.

Like I said I wasn’t trying to argue. We can just agree to disagree on this topic.

Also. What are the chances people are breaking serpentine belts or throwing them??? Slim to none. I’ve got a 20yr old truck with 299k miles that has the original serpentine belt. There isn’t a v-belt that would ever fare that well. People aren’t just running up and down the road ruining...

I’m not trying to start an argument here or anything, however with that mentality why don’t you take your new vehicle and convert it from a tried and true, far more reliable serpentine system to a inferior and sub par v-belt setup. There’s a reason manufacturers don’t use v-belts anymore. And it...

I just went and took some measurements. From the centerline of the water pump pulley to the outside of the reservoir is around 14.5”. I also “mocked” the original tray in place to show how much clearance there is. If the reservoir doesn’t clear a tray and battery there are ways around this. The...

I honestly can’t say. This is in an e-body and I don’t own an A so I don’t know how much more cramped the engine bay is. I’ll say though the Jeep bracket is a lot tighter to the center of the engine than the la power steering that was previously installed.

I mis spoke. The non ac idler is up and to the RIGHT about 3/4”

This is a Jeep bracket and pump, an a/c bracket that was cut to “appear” like a non a/c bracket. Belt routing is fine with this setup. The non ac idler is up and to the left about 3/4”

In my opinion the easiest (and quite possible cheapest) would be the magnum setup. For that you’ll need a timing cover, accessory bracket, alternator (which you said you wanted to upgrade anyway so you can get a 90amp all the way to 150amp) crank pulley and you can either go with a truck style...

An a500 or a518 will bolt up behind your motor with minor tunnel work and is a .69 overdrive and lock up. Driveshaft will only be about 2inches shorter