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Remember that the fenderwells are structural in these cars. Don't make sharp corners, and ideally you will want to add some sort of reinforcement to support the front frame rails.

I would not run a TBI on a high power turbo build. Port injection will give much better fuel distribution and you don't want one cylinder lean under boost. Gill Welding does multiport manifold conversions work if you need someone to set up the manifold. Also, a GT45 is a pretty big turbo for a...

Not a resolution per se, but I am trying to have a line of new US-made reproduction electrical parts for Mopars launched in early 2025. Just soldered together the prototype for what I hope is the production design yesterday.

The EV Chargers are over $60,000. Let's hope the gas powered version is more affordable, and takes a lot off the curb weight.

To repeat a restoration joke that has been passed around for a while: For authentic sticker placement, have the car roll past you at a slow walk and try to slap the sticker on when it's moving, to accurately re-create the assembly line process.

The voltage regulator is the metal box to the right of the master cylinder, with two wires, one on each end. It looks like you're still using the original mechanical picture.

I'm using a Lean Burn distributor with EFI myself. Cleanest way to get locked timing, so there's probably a buyer out there. And there's also people in places like California who need to pass smog tests

Also, some distributor caps had a grinding operation done off-center, making some terminals have different gaps to the rotor. Check to be sure you don't have that problem.

Agreed, these would hit the fenders unless you flare them for more clearance.

The 10" drum cylinder will be fine.

Made a quick replacement for a crumbling glove box liner. It'll do until I can bother to get something better.

Ok, probably just had the tach fail and short its input to ground, or less likely, 12 volts.

There are several ways to accomplish a steady supply of fuel for EFI - and incidently, they can also help with the issue you mentioned about fuel delivery taking too long with a carb. Just a matter of what you set the fuel pressure at. All require adding a return line. I have used all these...

Also, with MSD system, you must never wire a tach to the coil directly. The box has its own output. What ignition are you using?

My most recent thanks for this forum: Thank you to the members here who kept me from driving off with the drum brakes backwards.

Absolutely! Use factory '67-'76 parts for the master cylinder, booster with its push rod, and combo valve. Pretty much a direct bolt on.

The ECU should ground the coil negative terminal (so it would be 0-2 volts) at key on engine off. Either the ECU is bad or it isn't wired properly.

So it looks like the final tally for the person who originally built this axle was: One side with the shoes on the right way but the springs and adjustment mechanism backwards. One side with the springs and adjustment mechanism installed correctly but the shoes backwards. Both sides missing...

Thanks. Now where's the facepalm emoji?

Update: I was able to get the right-side lever from O'Reilly's, the remaining hardware from Layson's, and managed to reverse the shoes I have instead of needing to buy new ones as I'd feared.

What about the ECU; does it have 12V power with the key in both Start and Run? Measure with a multimeter instead of a test light.

A 2 wire factory distributor must have an external module. Not necessarily a factory module as it could use something like an an MSD box. Make sure the module has 12v power with the key in both Run and Start, and see if it sparks when you ground the pick up wires one at a time.

Just try swapping the wires and see what happens. Just a test. The MSD box usually triggers both ways, but one way gives much more accurate timing (in fact, if you can set the timing accurately, you probably don't have it backwards...) and more reliable triggering.

Any chance the pick-up coil is wired backwards?

Having Oregon Cams regrind one of your cores might be cheaper - just saying.:lol:

Just tell me you aren't taking the cheap part so far as to skip the Plastigauge. :p Going to port any oil or water passages while working on the block?

Make sure that has 12 volts in both Start and Run.

My Dart has a trunk mounted battery and MSD 6a ignition. I simply ran the heavy red wire to the alternator output wire and the ground wire to the engine block. I am using a double pole kill switch that also shuts down the voltage regulator (which is also in the trunk so as to read the battery...

After repeatedly flogging a 200,000 mile 225 with a freeze cracked block on a chassis dyno with about that much boost to 5500 RPM, the first thing to break was a rocker arm adjustment screw, followed by the #6 rod bearing due to the oil pick up clogging. Pistons were just fine with no signs of...

First check for spark. If you don't have spark, check out these troubleshooting steps: How Chrysler electronic ignitions work, and what to check if they don'