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I have the source heads, rockers and shafts on my convert and did not have ANY trouble with them. I disassembled the heads when I got them and the only thing I changed was the locks to a set of comp machined locks, I have about 6000 miles on the combo and drive the car almost every day...

it's time for this one to leave :(... I have lost interest and have a new project to start Rust FREE 67 dart. currently media blasted and bare steel, will put coat of epoxy primer on it if you want it. car has been: frame tied using us car tool frame ties mini tubbed to frame rail...

there are some pics on page 3 of this post http://www.bigblockdart.com/index.php/topic,30650.0.html

did you bleed it again ... ? I am assuming you know to push the gas valve in while trying to light the pilot ... I always use a propane plumbers torch to light pilots .... it heats the thermocoupler quick so you can let go of the gas vavle push button and fire off the heater

ok you probably need to bleed the gas line a little more the gas mixes with air and will cause hard lighting when 1st fired up ... open the valve and let it run of maybe 10 seconds after you smell gas. reconnect the line and wait about 10 mins with the garage door open to light the heater. I...

did you pressure check the line for leaks before hooking gas to it ? 2nd question that comes to mind here is did you hook it to propane from your house or natural gas ? 3rd question is is the heater set up for propane or natural gas ? 4th question is how big of a line and how long of a run ...

guess it's just business as usual in Washington ...

good looking pup

must have been to much clear in the paint ...

Pics of the torsion bar Alterkation. This baby bolted together like butter .... smooth ... now I have to get the front tires mounted to the rims and mock up the motor and trans .....

finally got the meats under the car .... working on the alterkation this week then on to the roll bar ....

hi terry, check the voltage on the field terminals on the back of the alternator. one should be about 12 volts and the other should be less say 4-5 volts. If you have zero volts on one or more of the terminals you will want to make sure that you have +12v to the "I" terminal of the regualtor...

I agree here, All of the Mopar boxes require a ballast resistor for the coil. In fact any ignition system that does not have a specific wire coming out of the control box for the positive side of the coil will require a ballast resistor. Use the resistor supplied with the coil in place of the...

if you have a 12 volt charge/run system on the truck it will not work. you will need a 12v starter solenoid.

the power for the fuse comes from the headlight switch. my guess is the dimmer in the headlight switch for the dash light is bad ... the wire coming from the headlight switch for the dash lights is TAN. it goes to the fuse box and the other side of the fuse in the box is ORANGE wire. if you...

no problem

sylvania # 57 bulb for the brake light indicator

there is 2 places for current to be carried to the bulb in that socket. one of the terminals in the socket provides +12 volts the other provided ground when the door is open and the switch is grounded out. most bulbs get their ground from the base of the bub but that wont; work here cause the...

A few more bolts it will be runnin

Moose in the shop .... moose at easter

So some of you are upset that the truth will be told ? You would rather have your candidate win votes with propaganda and lies, and not the truth ? There was another leader that used lies to help keep himself in power http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXl1GkWWGmA

the switch on the manual trans does not have a neutral safety switch it is just a reverse light switch ... the auto switch has 3 wires ... top is power, middle is for the neutral safety , and bottom goes to the reverse lights

Moser has a 3 day turn around on a dana 60 ... callem up and it will be at your door in less than 7 days ..

Where are you getting the reman alternators from ?

grips = tires going to town for a new set of grips ....

they are US cartool ... I bought them on E-bay ...

the weather is the same here although not quite as rainy ... here is what I am going to order and try ... they also make a difuser that put the heat to defroster ducts but I will be making my own out of sheet metal so I can use the factory control to choose heat and defrost. My design will also...

I am going to use an after market heater than mounts completly under the dash ... BB darts and heater motors are a PIA

I only had to finish the blasting and I used about 200 lbs of abrasive I would say to do a whole car you'll need about 800 lbs. No torque boxes ... the front mounts are inline with the frame connectors now and I do not need them, I have given thought to adding plating from the new spring...

I will be using a universal fuse block and making my own harness up when the time comes. I'll be writing some stuff up and taking lots of pictures for that part of the resto