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Thank you! This is the plan. Ok I will hit up summit again for the belts and brackets. Good I dont have to get the a/c situated right now, I also wouldnt want to buy different pulleys.

Ok thank you, I think I understand what you mean. So would it be prudent to buy everything you say AND get the air conditioning operational? I ask because again I do have air conditioning system, but not the condenser.

I have not even opened the alternator box just yet so I am unsure if it came with brackets. I forgot to ask you, so I do have a/c on this car but no condenser (want to do this at some point), unless you mean "a/c" being another thing? Sorry for my ignorance on this.

BUMP. Ended up buying this. But before I even buy the toys for it or install this, I need to address the starter and timing issue; More often it clicks but dont crank, I replaced the relay and most of the time I have to wiggle the wires from the starter, to the relay, to the battery for it to...

USPS from CONUS to an APO in Germany costed $150, so I can guestimate around the same.

I was going to ask this, can I just opt for bigger (so long as it mounts) and just not worry about it?

What brand did you use for these? I am a millennial so I am planning carplay and backup camera w/ navigation etc. lmao

Ok, cool, thank you! You got any recommendations for both in mind? German autobahn do not have lights so I thought the bright af LED headlights maybe the move. Sorry I am new af, so 110 would be enough for what I am thinking?

Team, At this point, I just want to get rid of this. I have an exhaust kit that I no longer need. This kit is in the EU but I can send this to the states from APO via USPS. Thank you all.

Belated Happy Easter everyone. It is spring(ish) again and I want to work on my car as these days I will have some down time. Attached you will find the alternator my 74 Duster has. In the future I want to install climate control, radios, and also LED headlights. What alternator would you...

I sent you a PM, you still got a pair?

Sending PM

I am going to necro this thread, have you ever found one that 3d prints these? I got in touch with a local one here in Germany but they quoted me 500 euros...

UPDATE: So my GF observed after I added power steering fluid and moved the wheels back and forth saw this nut as the source of the leak, she says it flows while I am moving the steering wheel back and forth. What do you call this? Is this the sector shaft? Do I just tighten this up? Just so I...

Team, update on this leak. It appears that this is not just the output seal. Pic below is a pic from the engine bay and the power steering fluid (I think its is, its red) seems to be all over this too. I looked at what I think is the power steering reservoir and its empty... presumably from...

That is a possibility, I bought a front end rebuild kit from PST And the pitman arm they sent me was not correct and I had to buy the pro forged one. I'll replace the idler arm now too and see if that works

I did, and it did not need much adjustment. It barely needed to be moved tbh

Welp, don't know what's going on. Tie rods are still uneven. I steered it through to the left then right, counted 4(ish) turns. And it ends up in the middle at 2 (ish) turns. Don't know what's up but I feel something squirty when I turn it to its limit either to the left or right. But that's...

So what is that notch for, then? Just wondering...

Ok ok! I was just going to ask if I need to take the notch position into account

Is that as simple as lining up the notch to the 12 o'clock position? Or is there a procedure I need to do?

I may have misunderstood "Best is to disconnect linkage at the box pitman arm to get your box centered" directions above, ok I will work on it in like 5 or so hours

HAHA but NOT before replacing the wheel but just hand tightening the nut so I can adjust it easier

Team, Thank you all. So in summary, these are the things I need to do; 1) Remove the steering wheel and identify the master spline and make sure its at 12 o'clock and lock it in that position 2) Disconnect the pitman arm 3) Adjust the tie rods 4) Refine the toe 5) Replace the steering wheel...

Also this thing is leaking oil, wtf

UPDATE: Sorry to bump. But connecting the two wires from the PCB into the one wire it corresponds to for the dash solved ALL the problems. Headlights are working, turn signals on both front and the rear etc. it even dims and lights up when the parking brakes are on. Just a heads up to whoever...

Hello all, Currently working on my 74 Duster. Just did an alignment myself at the base garage and noticed a few things; 1) My passenger and driver side tie rods and adjusters are not even. I dont understand because it drives straight and the machine says the toe is good. 2) Noticed my...

To whoever stumbles upon this thread: yes the C body tie rod sleeves (the proforged alum billet ones) and ends work for the A body. But its tight and barely has room to adjust, especially the passenger side. Maybe I should get different UCA. I dont know if I am seeing things but it seems that...

Moparshop seems to be only place. I ordered the shorter A body version too, but its 9/16. Just in case the C-body 11/16 ones dont fit. I can always return it. Its really the outer tie rods (PST sent me three inner tie rods...). The threads are going the same way so we can twist all we want and...

My bad, I have a 1974 Duster, 318. I would order something else but being stationed here in Germany I have to order locally and eat the VAT most of the time. Also I use the garage on base so I have to pick the quickest option. Part of me wants the 11/16 C-body sleeves so it feels...