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Disregard. I was looking at the metering rod thinking it said 1547 and was a part number, but it’s 7547 which is the stock rod. And yeah, the secondary jets are stuck. If i try to turn them out with the right size screwdriver, I’m just stripping the groove in it. It’s the stock jet, so I left...

So I finally got out to the garage again, and installed the carb rebuild kit. The pictures are from the “before”. Lots of debris and varnish, but it cleaned up nicely. Couldn’t read the jet sizes, and the secondaries were stuck in place, so I left them, but the rods were a weird size. Either...

Well, it’s not really a “built” engine, just a slightly tired placeholder until I build another 318 in a couple of years. It’s got some cylinder wear, so I’m guessing losing some compression there. The previous owner of the engine had everything the same, but with a set of leaky 360 heads on it...

Unfortunately, I don't have a tach, so I have no real guess. I'd say the top 20-25% of the range, but that's a total guess.

They weren't fresh plugs, I had run them briefly before in my old 318, I just had a look at them and re-gapped, they only had a few hundred km on them and were in good shape, so I'd have to swap in a fresh set to read them. I don't know the carb setup, the intake and carb came with the engine...

I’m pretty new to this, and can’t logic myself an explanation. 1974 318, some cylinder wear, nothing terrible 1971 stock heads with a fresh valve job and springs were tested New lifters Double roller timing set Unknown cam, either stock or very mild, no advance TDC confirmed, as well as cam...

When i do this to estimate cam timing, TDC is correct on the balancer, and with both lifters at exactly the same height it is reading about 1° advanced. So I assume this means it’s not the timing chain. The exhaust valve on that cylinder is definitely leaking, using the carb cleaner test. The...

Sorry if it wasn’t clear. The exhaust valve closing was on the exhaust stroke, and the intake valve was concerning the intake stroke and compression stroke. I know it’s not the proper way, I was just hoping that it would give me a better idea if the timing is way off. I don’t want to pull the...

Ok, so turning everything by hand, it looks like the exhaust is closing exactly as the piston hits the top, and on compression, the intake isn’t fully closed until at least 20-30° past when the piston starts to come up. (A rough estimate using grease pencil marks on the balancer). Is that...

If it was cam timing, with only the exhaust hitting, wouldn’t I still have decent compression on that cylinder? Exhaust would be staying open too long and getting hit, that would mean intake would still be closed on compression, maybe just closing partway through compression stroke? I’m only...

Yeah sorry, I edited my post. Thanks for clarifying, and thanks for the answer. I just have to figure out why the valve isn’t closing. So much for my goal of being on the road by this weekend!

I diagnosed it by: 1-Loud ticking noise from drivers side 2-rough running 3-power loss 4-compression test showing 60psi on that cylinder, only improving to 65 with a wet test, while all the rest are 115-120psi 5-valve marks on the piston top 6-backfire through carb on acceleration 7-burning oil...

Ok, so I’ve pulled the valve cover and rocker shaft. No sign of broken spring, valve seems to move fine when using pry bar to lever it down. Obvious marks on piston from valve contact. I don’t get it. Stuck lifter maybe? I assume I’m going to have to pull the head to inspect the valve for...

Ok, thanks for that everyone. I’m hoping it’s a valve spring and this is all moot, but if not it sounds like I’ll be fine to run the stock 318 heads. They’ll need a cleanup, but other than that they’ll do for the time being. I appreciate all the feedback, you guys are great! I love having this...

Yeah, I just meant if I was trying to glean information from the specific compression number, vs just being comparable to the other cylinders, or wet/dry comparisons.

What kind of numbers would I be looking for? I did compression test on the left bank where the valve issue is and on the three good ones got around 120 on each. (Not an expensive tester, so who knows if it’s accurate though)

The engine isn’t original, it has the 587 casting la360 heads, and I’m pretty sure a .030 overbore.

Hey all, this might be a question with a really elementary answer, but I just want to make sure. I have a 1974 la318 with a set of 587 360 heads. I’m not sure the build on the engine, I believe .030 over and possibly a very mild cam. I have a stuck intake valve on cylinder 3. If it’s not just a...

Well, this is what I’m trying to clean up. A lot of sketchy splices and fires waiting to happen. And this engine is likely temporary, I’m planning on a mild build 360 in the future, so having everything labeled and safe for the next time I engine swap is kind of why I’m even thinking about this.

Yeah, I’m going to stay to the factory colours, and I have the diagrams, I just feel like and future work would be made easier if I had clear labelling. That way I wouldn’t have to refer to wiring diagrams. My concern is that trying to write on 18 gauge wires is going to be microscopic, and I...

I’m looking at trying to clean up the wiring in my 66 Dart, but only a few circuits need new wiring. I’m just replacing a few wires, removing a few suspect spliced-in wires, and just trying to route and bundle them in a more logical fashion. I’m wondering what everyone’s preference is regarding...

Turns out it was any one of a number of things, or a combination. A previous owner spliced two wires going into the bulkhead connector, badly, (I’m not sure why they’re spliced in the first place), so that was a tenuous connection, the wire from the solenoid to the starter showed continuity, but...

Yeah, it starts perfectly every time if I use a remote start trigger wired directly to the terminals on the starter. And a brand new relay. I have discovered some weird wiring things tonight, and think I’m about to go down a real bad wiring rabbit hole. A wire through the firewall beside the...

The wire that’s supposed to run from the bulkhead to the solenoid is disconnected, but there is a wire through the firewall directly to the solenoid, assuming a past owner decided to bypass the bulkhead for some reason. I’ll have to check and see if that’s got continuity?

As far as I can tell, yes. Everything else works. There is some suspect wiring at the bulkhead connector, some things don’t seem to be wired the same as in my wiring diagram, so it makes things a little tough.

So I recently swapped a 1971 la318 out and a 1974 la318 in to my 1966 Dart. Haven’t changed any wiring, but I’m having a starter issue. When I turn the key, the relay clicks, but nothing else. When that happens, the interior lights dim, the fuel gauge drops back to E. battery is healthy, I...

Hey, so for anyone wanting an update, I’ve pulled the intake/carb, water pump, and valve covers, and that’s as far as I’m going to go for that. There were no visible leaks around the water pump, but when I pulled it I could see it had been leaking around the bolts, so I had to clean the bolts...

I haven’t had it running, but the seller videoed himself running it on a stand. Right now it’s got the intake pulled off, water pump off, and it’s on a stand. FYI, I was off a little on the compression. You guys all had me second guessing and went back and looked at my notes. All cylinders...

That’s a good idea, I do have a wifi scope that’ll work. There is a build-up on the piston tops that I can see just shining a flashlight in the plug holes. How obvious are the markings on most pistons, would it show through some build-up?

Why do you say that? I wasn’t too hung up on the actual number, just that it wasn’t 90-100 like the old one, and that they were all fairly even.