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The case for Pre-ignition is also very interesting. In my case, for the first few accelerations there is no pinging. But as the drive continues, that is when the pinging starts. It's about 1-3 minutes of no pinging where I think in my head "yes I finally fixed it", then it starts again...

I'm not sure if you read the entire thread, but I did accidently click 1 thread off of where I meant to click. But the people here have been just as helpful as the people in a different size engine thread.

"The best indication of detonation is the pinging sound that cars, particularly old models, make at low speeds and under load" Doesn't this mean that when I get off the gas and am coasting at low speed, and am hearing pinging, it is still detonation?

"One thing to understand is that detonation is not necessarily destructive. Many engines run under light levels of detonation, even moderate levels. Some engines can sustain very long periods of heavy detonation without incurring any damage. If you've driven a car that has a lot of spark advance...

Points

I can take a video. For the "Vehicles don't ping decelerating", why is that? The engine is still firing while decelerating, it's just doing so at a lower RPM. And if the detonation is now occurring at a lower RPM after retarding the timing, I don't see how it's out of the question. Now I...

I don't have much time today or tomorrow. So I will gather all of the needed information over the weekend. The distributor is stock I will come back with my initial timing, total timing, cranking compression, all in RPM. some of the other information requested that I have: Trans is a 727...

Thats my bad, clicked the wrong thread.

Update: After adjusting the idle mixture screws, and retarding the timing, I got it to the point where it no longer pings at ~2k rpm. But it does ping as I let off the gas and the car is coming down in RPM, around the 1,100 - 1,500 range. The pinging is much quieter, but now is in the lower...

Two steps colder, could you explain what that means? I'm uneducated on what that means, thanks.

about 3 tanks

Gas is fresh

Tbh, I have no idea how lower octane will help reduce it It is what my mechanic recommended

I'll swap the plugs, add some fuel additive, and get back to y'all. Thank you everyone for your help, everyone is very helpful like always. Really helps a new classic car owner like me, I can't appreciate y'all more.

I considered it, but with my lack of experience I really didn't want to tinker with the distributor unless all other things have been looked at.

I have no idea how old the spark plugs are either, would swapping those out be a possible help?

Actually no, that's why I think it might be the lack of fuel additive, it slowly got worse (I'm assuming as i refilled the tank, the additive got more and more diluted). It has stopped getting worse, and it's much, much better after I retarded the distributor, although it isn't completely gone.

I tried disconnecting vacuum advance, no change that was noticeable 3.55 gears Holds oil

Automatic trans, all gears. It's loudest at about 2,000 rpm, altough it really only starts as the engine starts to warm up to runnning temp. (~160). Carb is a holley 650, I still have to see what the total timing and static timing are. The car is relatively new to me, it's a moderately built...

I have a 340 in my 72' Duster I have had some pinging issues recently using 94 octane pump gas, and am going one of two ways to try and resolve the problem. I just wanted to post it on here and see what y'all think. 1. Lead substitute fuel additive/octane booster 2. Use a lower octane fuel...

This ^ Just got home. It ended up being a faulty oil filter seal I suppose. Once the new filter was installed I had no problems, the non fram oil filter also brought my idle oil pressure from 55-60 to 30-35. Thank you all for the help!

First Picture is a top view of the filter, second is the view of the filter from below. The oil was leaking all down the headers on the second picture. I don't have time to take off the filter tonight, I will post picture with it off tomorrow, to confirm whether or not it is a double seal...

I posted a picture, and said in the original post if I can supply any information or pictures that could help I will, I am just inexperienced with classics and don't know what to take pictures of. Saying its the car and the parts is redundant, I don't even see a point of you replying to this...

I thought about the double gasket, but I've been driving the car for 2 weeks, would it take that long for a double gasket to blow? I will confirm this when I install a new filter tomorrow. "or possibly you lost a galley plug out the back of the block. what's the connection at the block for the...

Is it possible the sending unit is sending too much oil pressure?, and thus causing the seal to fail? The oil filter is only ~50 miles old.

would it leak 5 quarts of oil in 200 yards?

1972 Plymouth Duster 340ci So I was driving down the road, and then all of a sudden I lose all oil pressure, and all the oil in the car sprays all down the road. I pull into a parking lot, stop the car and get on the ground to look under. The oil is leaking all down my headers right below the...

Yeah tried this, they said they don't carry it.

1972 Plymouth Duster - 340 My power steering belt snapped last night, and I'm having some trouble tracking down a new one. Does anybody know anywhere in Canada that sells these? In the US helps too if I can't find a Canadian supplier. There isn't a part number on the belt, or it might of been...

Certain it has all 4 disk, they were swapped by previous owner when they rebuilt the motor. Bleeders are at the top of calipers.