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Going to sit back and just watch and learn on here. I appreciate this place for it's knowledge. Not posting anything anymore (other than this one). Feel free to message me if you need anything. Thanks.

What kind of acid? Like muratic?

If you end up rebuilding it, a good trick for a super hard engagement of the trans is to scuff the surface area under where the band engages with some 80 grit. I did this to 904 on my D100 truck, and man when it shifted, it hit so hard it hurt. Heh.

I know like anyone here that's had to deal with rust, you know what a headache it is. We all have our methods of madness. Well I just came across something that I never did before that seems to work very well. Perhaps someone here already has done this. But to me, this is working very nicely...

Welcome from Missouri! This is a great place to learn and find things. Enjoy your stay!

Truth. Opening a new can of worms is the phrase that comes to mind. Luckily the rear fenders and the roof is the last places for me to discover. I've run out of car to find anything else. Even the inside of frames were opened up and cleaned. Heck, I had to straighten and rebuild the front...

Got a question for anyone who may know. On the rear wheel wells, what is the proper angle of the fold in from the fender to the wheel well? The person that had this before me rolled the edge. Is is straight in or at an angle? Any pics would be appreciated.

I swear it's a car.

1. Thanks! No, that's not a pic of me. I'm much more ugly. 2. I don't half-*** anything. I have a tendency to do more and create more work. 3. I hear 91 octane is most efficient. 4. I agree. Rust drives me crazy. I take apart everything. See pic below. I just did the roof and the fender/pillar...

Also did I mention the 74 Firebird I have sitting next to it about half done? Somebody shoot me.

OH, it's rusted out all right. Most of the passenger side was gone. It filled the door pillar area up with rust (had to rebuild and repair that too). It took me a good week to drill out the bazillion spot welds to take the frame off the donor roof. I got 2 other donor pillars that weren't...

Well, I'm about to cut out the drip tray, all the way into the inside, removing all the rusty, broken, bent and pretty much destroyed roof frame structure to replace it with another that I have already disassembled (2-300 spot welds drilled out), sandblasted, and straightened. I have to ask...

It's got some piston skirt wear into the cylinder bore. Time for a rebuild. It looks like it's got a few miles on it. Too bad you didn't plastigage it. Curious if it's been rebuilt before.

Prayers for your son. Trust in the Lord for his healing. Worry not about the outcome. He will be with you if you have faith in him. All things are possible with him.

If you have a pressure washer, spray it down. Top to bottom. Anywhere you see oil. Engine degreaser first will also help. Then run it and check it again later. There's too much oil all over on your pictures to determine what is going on. Pull that inspection cover on that trans and clean inside...

I had an 08 Charger with a 5.7 in it. Ended up pulling it after rebuilding another one to put in it's place so the car wouldn't be down. I ported/polished the heads, mild cam, replaced the stock rods (junk sinthered ones) for good forged H-rods.. hypereutectic pistons.. balanced. After changing...

Much respect for the slanties. They're virtually indestructible. It's comparable to the GM Iron Duke in durability.

Yeah, I was reading instructions before doing this that the paint thinner was needed not only to thin out the linseed, but to keep it from dissipating too quickly. Don't know much about polymer cross linking or anything like that. But I do know that it worked whatever it did. I'm going to keep...

I'm going to be running a 318 with 273 heads... good compression. I have an Erson "rv" cam which has a decent lift, but not over the .500 that people usual search for. I'm running it on the street. It's all low end power. TTi headers, street dominator manifold, 3.55 gear, and best of all it's a...

There will always be those that discount the 318. It just didn't have the glory of the 340 because it didn't receive the cams, 4bbl, good manifolds... it was a grocery-getter. But for what the 318 will do, it's worth it. You can get cheap power from a 318. Try buying anything 340 cheaply. :D

Ahh very cool. Probably a lot safer than what I'm doing. I have to let the rags dissipate or they'll self combust. Heh.

Yeah, but I didn't pay the cool can price. The fun is doing it on the cheap.

I'd say get a dog to scare them off, but with that many cats, they'd gang up on it. Heh. Cats are just evil. Cute, but evil.

I'm in touch with that emotion. Lived near Ft. Worthless for 23 years. I still remember that bacon sizzling sound sitting in a vehicle with shorts on.

Back in my teen years, I'd put a layer of aluminum screen under the carb to help with atomization. Loved doing little tricks like that. I was also coiling fuel line in ice coolers to cool the carb on the track. Good times, good memories.

Old school Cragar. It was the schniz back in the 80's, and still looks good to this day.

You don't choose the cat. The cat chooses you. That's how we got our last cat. Showed up one day, never left.

Check with Mo-Par City. They're open Mon-Fri 10am-5pm CST.

Let me first say I really appreciate all the help and advice on what to do with this. I gave things a lot of thought, did some more research and I came up with this. Since plastic is made with oil, I did some research on oils that help plastics. Came across a lot of them with using boiled...

I have not. But I'll research this and see what I come up with. I have not thought about dyes. Question is will it hold up to heat? I'm going to look more into the SEM products too. There has to be a happy medium here to reach. Never figured a simple shroud would be such an issue. Maybe I'm...