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These came off the ‘75 360 in my D100. Unsure on condition, under-dash is messy so I never tested it. I’d like to sell as a whole bundle but could possibly separate. Willing to ship but bear in mind the weight of the compressor. I’m located east of Dallas but travel to a lot of surrounding...

Googled it, sure enough that’s what it is. I’ll post it in the classifieds in the next couple of days.

I’d say it’s ironic since I’m removing stuff that would actively keep me cool. Lol. A couple of reasons for me personally.. the whole system inside the cab (blower fan, wiring, vacuum hoses etc.) is already a mess so realistically if I was going to add air back in functionally I’d be replacing...

It’s a ‘73 truck with a ‘75 motor in it. I will finish pulling the last odds and ends and get it listed in the classifieds here with some photos.

So I have removed the underhood AC components from my D100, I’m planning on sticking them in a box on the shelf unless someone has a use for them. Is there much if any value in original AC components and brackets?

So I have an update on this in case anybody is interested… Long story short I got drastic but it paid off. Basically after overthinking this truck and tinkering on and off for so long I decided to scrap everything I had read or memorized and started from scratch on my troubleshooting and...

Carb on the motor is junk.. peeked down the barrels and inside the intake was wet with fuel. Pulled the top off it, tweaked the float level and put it back in.. it fired up and ran for less than a minute, inside the barrels are slick with fuel and I got a big puff of smoke out of the carb when...

Last night I pulled, cleaned and reassembled the distributor. Restabbed it and retimed it. Mechanical is set to around 8-10 initial and about 36-38 all in. Idle is stubborn at 500-550rpm but it eases into gear without stalling or slamming, its running cool and the oil pressure is good even at...

That was for a point of reference. Like I said, off fast idle it wanted to stall. I’m not using the fast idle cam for anything different than normal. Last night I pulled the carb again and yanked off the baseplate. I didn’t find any cracks or anomalies so I cleaned it and reinstalled it with a...

I’m starting to wonder on the carb too.. I sprayed around the base of the carb and where the intake meets the heads and didn’t find any noticeable leaks. I’ll check the back port when I have more daylight and confirm it’s not a ported source. On the curb idle should I just put another turn into...

So with the vacuum can disconnected I settled at 10 degrees initial, it’s a bit back from rough running and a bit higher than sounding lazy. Idle is stuck around 500-550rpm, mix screws are 2 turns out and I had to put a turn and a half into the idle speed screw. Vacuum on the gauge has a little...

I’m expecting to set things a few times and tinker a lot. So questions about the process.. With it stumbling at hot idle should I first adjust the speed screw or the base timing? Once base idle is established do I adjust the mixture screws for best idle/vacuum before bringing the vacuum can...

So what’s your basic method then? It seems everyone has an opinion on what’s “correct”. Carb is set to a baseline 2.5 turns on the idle mix screws, idle speed screw is set to achieve a square transfer slot. Initial timing is 5 degrees at 650rpm (on the last step of fast idle cam, shop manual...

Its gone, vacuum hooked direct from carb to distributor. Ok that sounds like I’m not far off. How did you limit the all in timing? What port on your 2210 is your advance hooked to? I feel if I bump up my base timing from 5 up to 10 I’d probably be in the vicinity of 650-700rpm for idle.

Honestly no idea what it looks like, I’ve just read a few threads on it. I don’t believe my truck ever had one but at some point in its life it gained a replacement 360 that I have to assume came out of something that did. Vac advance is hooked directly to that port. I expect some bounce in it...

The plot thickens! Found the passenger side of the intake damp with fuel when I went to pull the carb.. turns out the screws in the bottom of it were not tight at all. So I snugged those, confirmed the ones up top, set the idle screws to 2.5 turns out and the idle transfer slot to a square. Got...

That “OSAC” port is the one I’m using for the advance cannister. I guess at this point I’ve read so many varying ideas, numbers, methods and adjustments that I’m probably chasing my tail. The vague consensus I came to was 12- 14 degrees initial and all in timing around 32-34 seemed to be about...

Makes sense.. but all the diagrams I’ve seen and threads I’ve read show it to be correct. It’s the standard Holley 2245, the vacuum advance is hooked to the small port that comes out of the passenger side of the carb.

It’s hooked to what I’m pretty confident is the correct port on the carb, there’s a vacuum tree on the manifold that’s used exclusively for the brake booster and vacuum gauge when I’m using it.

Good point, I may be too focused purely on the ignition side of things. I’ve worried about that, it’s just odd to me it was holding correctly for a period and the problem is intermittent. I’d like to think a mechanical problem like the chain would be more consistent.. or maybe that’s just what...

Alright I’m trying to properly nail down how my 360 runs in my ‘73 D150 so I can actually start to make runs to the store with it. I feel like it’s about 90% there.. So essentially the whole ignition system is replaced already with the exception of the pigtail to the ignition module. I also...

Update as of this afternoon.. Voltage at the coil is good in run and start, voltage to the ignition module is good, continuity in the wiring to the coil/distributor checks out also. I found some minor corrosion buildup on one contact of the ignition module that runs out the distributor pickup...

That would be great. I feel like it’s probably a poor connection or ground somewhere too. I have also already found and repaired a bad connection at the electric choke baseplate where it would occasionally short and cause a stall. I’m sure there’s going to be something similar I stumble upon.

Good starting point, I’ll inspect those. Not specific to this issue, no. It’s been so intermittent and random, I did one day start looking with a meter and sure enough, the second I turned that thing on the truck kicked over. That’s why I was asking if there was any weird little commonly known...

Got a little bit of a weird intermittent issue, I’ll try keep it concise, looking for ideas before I go chasing it down.. Motor is a 360, sitting in a ‘73 D100 with the auto behind it. The issue I have (today) is that the truck will not kick over. It cranks strong and I have fuel to the carb...

A first for me, a brand new steering wheel.. coming along!

Just stumbled onto this thread.. car is epic, can’t wait to see the finished product! Wheel spacers aren’t the end of the world if they’re decent quality and torqued down properly.

Minor updates.. Figured I needed a tachometer to really nail down my idle adjustments so I grabbed a universal one from the local parts store. Took a little work to mount, I’ll still have to get back in there and tweak it but it’s secure and functional.. Then I also managed to pickup a used...

“Driven 300 miles.” I think there may be some digits missing..

Minor updates.. Bumped initial timing up a couple degrees, all-in mechanical is now hitting 30-31 degrees. So at this point it’s getting to a point where I feel I can start to tinker on improving things and fine-tuning stuff rather than just getting it to a consistent state. Bearing that in...