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Oh yea, that's one thing I forgot to mention. I adjusted the lash too before putting the valve cover back on for good (after she was hot, of course). Would it be wise to replace the cover gasket any time I remove the cover (like for valve seals), or can I just rinse and reuse?

As it may be known I've been in a time crunch for this project and was just set on a date of completion that I wanted to meet at the very least with a reassembled vehicle since I'd be away for the next 7ish months. Would not mind having to come back for round 2 with more time on my hands, but I...

Ouch, those will only come the day I leave. Can I just use sealant as you mentioned here with the de-bridged FelPro inter-manifold gasket and FelPro manifolds-to-head gasket instead, or was sealant a given even with the better gaskets?

Understood. This is a self-blame situation. Don't mean to put anything on y'all in the slightest. I, with my lack of understanding coming into this repair, thought it'd be an in and out job. A few days max. I am leaving the country in about a week and would surely never had taken this on right...

Unfortunately I haven't quite been in the game long enough as y'all folks to truly understand the extent of what needs to line up for what I thought was just a "remove old and pop in new gasket" job. Coming into this project as my first I was not expecting such fine grained requirements as I've...

Hmm thinking back, I did the thumb pushdown test from the side top part of the spring and not from the little round metal part where the rocker arm meets, so maybe my test didn't actually tell much... Being my first rodeo I'm really a bit clueless on testing. Would love to hear your input. P.S...

Negative. Although I did notice that after coming back from the shop (forgot to test before), most of the valve springs were (with two-thumbed effort) compressible by hand - except the ones that had bent pushrods attached to em (+ a couple others that I may have just not pressed hard enough...

Wow, quite comprehensive. Thank you Dan. I will report back after following your process.

:eek: thx. Will need it. Whatcha say?

Cleaned by the shop and apparently painted blue? Unless that's the original paint... Possibly resurfaced since it is clean although wasn't shiny. Did a visual on valve seals and nothing seems cracked at first glance, though I've seen videos of people changing those seals with the head attached -...

@slantsixdan got er back from the shop. Opted not to do a full head rebuilt since I'm on a tight money & time budget and because there wasn't any overheating I'm gonna take the gamble for now and stick w/ the old block... We'll get em another time (hopefully won't need to tho :thumbsup:) Now...

Is it safe to spray brake cleaner into the cylinders and use compressed air to blow out all the loose crap near the ringlands? Or is that a no-no since it risks just pushing things deeper into there..?

Here's a peek inside + a quick cleanup view of all cylinders

It's loose carbon though. Will check for cross hatching tomorrow. About 75k mi on the engine.

Thanks. Gonna bring it over to the machine shop tomorrow. I gotta say it looks worse than reality in the images. Fingernail test proved alright for most cylinders. Got some more buildup at the ridge of cylinder #3 than the others but even so, while it does catch, it's relatively easy to scrape...

Exhaust was blowin' white (& maybe slight light blue). Thought it might be blown head gasket - but it looks fine. Found two bend push rods upon taking off valve cover. What's the next step here? Anything look immediately wrong with this here engine? If not, what's the next step, and if yes...

Yeah, and fuel cover as well. Didn't work for any of the above. Will have to try again for the glovebox later since it's the only lock still intact lol.

Lol oops, I had tried both on the trunk. Ignition key fit it but didn't turn and the round one didn't even go in all the way. Ended up breaking open the trunk a bit ago with a flathead The more you know... :BangHead:

Dart came with two keys. The left one works for the ignition and that's it, and the other (with rounded top) doesn't seem to fit into anything. Any ideas what it's for?

Aha, welp there goes that. Thought there might be a trick to reringing without all hell breaking loose, oh well. :BangHead: In other news, found 2 absolutely wrecked (bent) push rods on intake valves for the 1st and 6th cylinder that were detached from the rocker. Good start.

Tested the PCV by holding a piece of paper at the oil filler while running and it was sucking it in, so I think that ruled out a PCV problem... So if I'm pulling the head anyway now what do you suggest (that doesn't involve taking the engine out :eek:)?

It's actually normal on startup but then after the engine "warms up" a few minutes later it starts blowing white with a blue tinge. It blows thicker on rev.

Yeah, I'm hoping it's just a bad head gasket or valves and not piston rings (even though the wet compression test seemed to indicate so ) since I'm in a time crunch and don't really want to have to drop the engine for the repair... Where would my valve seals be to check for that? Are they in the...

How clean should the head and area that connects the head to block be (over & under head gasket)? Should I be doing a full scrubdown to get off all grease/oil 'till shiny clean? Excuse my ignorance, it's my first proper engine project :)

Awesome, that's some good news to start off the weekend - thanks all!

Signs lead to a blown head gasket on my 225 - white/blueish smoke was streaming from the exhaust. I've got the new head gasket kit (FEL-PRO HS 7918 PT-4) and am already halfway thru teardown (removing intake/exhaust as we speak) but I'm realizing that I forgot to buy new head bolts. Couldn't...

Signs lead to a blown head gasket on my 225 - white/blueish smoke was streaming from the exhaust. I've got the new head gasket kit (FEL-PRO HS 7918 PT-4) and am already halfway thru teardown (removing intake/exhaust as we speak) but I'm realizing that I forgot to buy new head bolts. Couldn't...

Obligatory shot - she's back on the road after 30 years in the garage! Next step is a well deserved wash 'n shine.

Turns out it was a problem inside the distributor. The connection point/contact that makes and breaks the circuit was corroded and so there was no power being provided to the spark plugs. Used the rigged sides of a flathead screwdriver to shave/clean off the corrosion from both sides of the...

Ok, got it. I moved the new condenser to coil positive along with the other "run" wire. I have the distributor wire connected to coil negative only now. When the ignition is in "run", I'm getting 12v on both the POS and NEG coil terminals. However, if I connect the coil NEG to chassis, then I...