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The surface is very uneven below the water line, and the water line(s) are deeper and pitted. It’s worse than it looks, when you touch it. I don’t want to use it anymore since repairing it will cost more than finding one that isn’t toasted.

I will be making a move today. Getting the engine into my 4runner with the deadly temu hoist my landlord has is probably not ideal, but I can get a uhaul trailer cheap. His employee , who posted the ad, delivered it, dumped it on the ground, and tumbled it into the garage, while I was getting...

Tell me more. I still have to see what the seller says.

The last engine swap I did was 30 years ago, and I did my absolute best to make the right choice on this purchase without getting fcked. Water sat in one cylinder from a head gasket fail. Either way, someone had to know about it. The ad is still up for the rest of the drivetrain: Monroe...

Wall, NJ. By the Wall stadium race track. Thanks for your avatar, it got the first smile out of me today.

I agree, should be perfect. That would be wild if he tried that. I’m hoping since it was his, and sold out of his shop he takes full accountability, whether it’s the 800 or something equivalent. I lose a ton of time and effort no matter what, unless he really wants to make it right (doubt that).

Indeed. The guy has an insane car collection, and a 4x4/car fab shop heaven, so hopefully he is fair. It’s also insane that I am starting over on finding an engine. Ouch.

Yeah, there are plenty 360 junkers around here for sure. I hope Brandon (the seller) can help with that, or maybe his machine shop owes him one, Idk. I’m open to any sensible solutions really. I heard the yards around NJ don’t want us picking parts anymore, not sure how true it is.

Yeah, it’s friggin deep. I had a feeling it was un-sendable. I thought I was getting somewhere today, then my heart sank when I found this. KHC Offroad & Performance (Krazy House Customs) Monroe, NJ sold it to me. I will call Brandon (owner) tomorrow and ask how he would like to resolve this. I...

I got a couple more pics. Water sat in there for sure, the lines are horizontal to the ground. It definitely is acidic damage to the bore, it’s pitted. Everything else looks good as far as I can tell. Didn’t pull the pan yet. The 70k engine plan (A) was reseal and convert to carb and roll by...

The engine turns, unless you mean the rings are stuck to the piston?

You can definitely catch a nail. The upper half is basically fine. I scrubbed inside with mineral spirits and a clean rag before the pics. Can I use fine sand paper in there? There was evidence of a little water in the oil, and what you said icetech makes sense with how it looks in the cylinder...

Changing the valve seals and head gaskets was going well today thanks to the helpful people here, but then I removed the other head. All cylinder bores still have crosshatch, one has extra. I would like to pretend I didn’t see it and continue because having the block machined is not in the...

I got one side done, and it went pretty smooth once I figured it out. Thank you for all the helpful input! Sorry if I’m a little slow with it. I just took off the other head and found some ugly. I am making another thread to not pollute this one. Meet me there if you want to chime in on...

Okay the gap is normal according to the next seal. The spring, locks, and retainer went back on easy. I was mixing up those terms btw. Regarding scratching the springs, I’ll do my best with what I have as the budget quickly ran dry. Hopefully the engine doesn’t blow up after 5 miles because I...

Okay one down 15 to go. I’m just changing the seals one at a time. Stand by for getting it back on lol. Fingers crossed. There is a little tiny gap at the base of the seal where it sits on the head. I hope that is normal because it doesn’t go down further:

I hit the locks a few taps. I thought the locks were the retainers. Is the retainer actually what caps the spring and look like a washer? I was literally about to start hammering harder on the little pieces that lock the spring to the stem.

Don’t scratch the springs while using metal tools and hammers to remove them? Is that real? Seems impossible.

Okay so the spring tool seems like it will work, now that it’s properly oriented. I’m not understanding the retainers. Even though I’m afraid small, high speed projectiles will fly into the abyss, I gave a few taps with a socket on the retainer. Nothing. Hitting it harder seems like a bad idea...

Hopefully I can get by with the free one. I’m a little delayed because I had to chase down a customer who likes to pay at there convenience instead of when they get the bill. My favorite! Anyway I’m really going out there to retry, now.

So don’t use something small like a nail set because it will contact the tip of the valve stem, and a hammer will bridge the small gap and only contact the retainers? Am I understanding that right? The valve stem itself is not exposed anywhere to hit it anyway.

Yeah the finger tabs are short and like to slip out. Maybe I’ll twist some wire around them, once in place. I don’t know how to weld, but plan on learning. No extra rockers either. I saw one guy drilled a hole through a crescent wrench and bolted it to the head, as he tightens the bolt, the...

I think you are right, Mike! Glad to know you like this tool, and that it should work once I flip the handle. I’ll report back shortly.

This looks way more usable! I didn’t tap the keepers with a 3/4, banging anything in the heads makes me nervous, but I also have no clue. Youtube god smiled upon me and just allowed a video of my specific tool. I had the upper handle turned around, so I should of been pulling the upper down to...

I’m at the valve springs to change the seals for my 360 swap. Head off, I cannot budge the springs with the Lisle compressor, and feel like any more force will break or damage something. I can get the spring to slightly lift from the bottom, but will not depress at all to reveal the keepers up...

Could it be possible a 98 stock 360 magnum comes slightly retarded for emissions, and we can advance it to achieve the engines happy place performance wise and disregard emissions? Or did the factory nail it regardless of emissions?

Thanks for the reply! Maybe I’ll use the 4° mark, maybe someone will say don’t. Maybe someone will say if I do, I’ll need to machine the everything, and recalibrate every piece of the engine with machine shop tools. I’m not at ignition timing yet, but I will be looking to optimize that also...

Sounds good to me, and I have definitely heard that many times over the years (advance 1 tooth). Will that apply to my carbureted magnum 360, or will it handicap it? What about 4°? The argument on either side is strong and both make sense…if that makes any sense. My solution to the mystery is...

I will have mine apart today. If the old chain is way off, I will buy an adjustable set, if not a normal set will go in, straight up. I feel like I’m missing something, and should probably advance it, but people chase me away from both ways, so flip a coin it is. Nothing like flipping a coin and...

Been trying to make sense of this before I buy a timing set for my 360 magnum. The more I read/watch the less I understand. What is the next step if you find cam timing is off, if you shouldn’t advance or retard the cam? Why would an adjustable set have the wrong numbers on it? Why haven’t I...