Search results for query: *

They're both part of the suspension system. The fact that the torsion bar is more critical doesn't mean the sway bar isn't also an important component. And again, that has absolutely no bearing on bending or heating a metal bar that has been previously heat treated that will be loaded in...

I think realistically a small amount of bending isn’t going to make a dramatic, noticeable change or make the bar unsafe or anything like that. That would be more true for a solid factory bar too, rather than say a large diameter, hollow, aftermarket sway bar like the Hellwig. Bending a smaller...

Yeah! Don’t figure out how to do it right, just tell the man what he wants to hear! Redneck the **** out of it! Gitturdone! :rolleyes: Sway bars are heat treated after being bent into the proper shape. Bending the bar to the point of deformation is going to change the strength of the bar...

Yup, looks like the sleeve has slipped out of the bushing. It’s just a friction fit, there is no adhesive, bonding etc. that holds the bushing together. This is a QA1 LCA that came with brand new rubber LCA bushings, showing the bushing disassembled with the shells and rubber intact

You are correct, the only force that could be pushing the LCA backward on the pin is through the strut rod. The strut rod is literally the only thing that locates the LCA forward/aft, that is its only purpose and no LCA bushing regardless of kind does that. The order in which you torqued the...

The M series can no longer claim that it is “made in the USA”. They no longer meet the standard for that, which is why it’s not in the advertising anymore. It is assembled in the US, but some of the parts are now globally manufactured. Are Warn Winches Made in the USA? And yeah, the VR EVO...

I don’t know about 17 years ago, but Warn is not being made in the US anymore. According to Summit, their 10k winch is being made in China You can also read between the lines on the Warn industries webpage- “For over 70 years, the small army of engineers, technicians, and machinists who...

Yeah I think the tail lights might be the best mod on that car! I don’t understand those reproduction gauge panels at all. They’re expensive despite just being cheap *** plastic panels, and the gauge layout is awful especially for the accessory gauges. Sure, you get aftermarket gauges which can...

That’s the strangest mod you’ve ever seen? That doesn’t even start the topic for me… Honestly I think it looks pretty decent. Hard to tell if it was done well considering the matte black paint and the decal. If anything it’s pretty subtle compared to the factory ‘72 tail lights, people who...

The Hellwig #55905 and #55917 are for different model years. The #55905 is for '73-76, and the #55917 is for '67-72. It's not just a matter of the location of the sway bar tabs either, the entire bar is mounted differently. The 73+ sway bars are routed through the K frame, the '67-72 bars are...

The diagram is from a factory TSB that's available on The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Home Page I'm not at all convinced that narrowing the track width more will make up for the 26" tall tire. That combination of rim and tire is already over ~1" inside of the fender lip. I suspect all you'll do is...

So mostly low speed turning then it sounds like. That's when you'd have the most force on the steering components, so that's where I would start. Will it do it with the car parked and just turning the wheel? Because if it will then you just need someone to turn the wheel while you try and find...

Exactly. The "newest" car that you could conceivably use as a donor for a '73+ disk swap is an '89 Diplomat or 5th Ave. But even those cars are not frequently seen in the yards anymore. And as with any of the 73+disk swaps you'd need either a set of large ball joint UCA's that will not come...

If we're talking 67-76 like the OP said then the only post cars are the 67-68 Darts and '67-69 Valiants. Barracuda's were notchbacks or fastbacks, there were no "post" Barracudas 67-69. The bit about the post cars being "stronger" somehow is "old wives tale" territory for me. Lots of opinions...

This is the difference in the track from the 67-72 cars to the 73-76 cars- 57.74" for 67-72 and 59.15" for 73-76. That is track width so it does include the wheel specs The difference is in the spindle/brakes and possibly some in the wheel specs, but it's not in the K frame, UCA's, LCA's etc...

Not much to go on there. Does it only do it when turning? Or with suspension travel too? Does it do it sitting in your driveway turning the wheels, or only when you're driving and turning left and right also has a body roll component? Are there any other symptoms, like extra play in the...

Yep, early A is a whole different deal Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

Yup! The hole in the inner fender should line up with the top hole in the plate. And the existing hole in the inner fender is where the ballstud should go.

In your picture, is this a bolt? The ballstud bracket gets welded to the frame, yours appears to be bolted in place. And that bolt is using the hole that the ballstud should be using. Post #4 shows the proper location of the plate and the spot welds. While the automatic cars didn't usually...

Does it still have the factory bulkhead connector? If it does your best bet is probably just to buy a new engine harness and not worry about sorting out all the PO’s shenanigans. There’s nothing wrong with 1 wire set ups. It does the same thing as the external voltage regulator, the voltage...

I realize this doesn’t solve your issue, but Powermaster makes both 1 wire and factory style Mopar alternators that use an external voltage regulator. It’s a brand, not a style of alternator I assume you’re talking about a 1 wire alternator, and switching back to one with an external voltage...

If you have Poly or Delrin LCA bushings the pivots/pins don’t need to be torqued at ride height. Those bushings rotate on the pivot/pin, so it doesn’t matter where they get torqued. The factory rubber LCA bushings need to be torqued at ride height because nothing spins or rotates. All of the...

Front or rear? The rear bumpers are completely different, the ‘73 rear is the same as the ‘70-‘72, much narrower, much lighter. In the front, I’m not 100% sure. I had a ‘74 non-shock mount bumper. It looks the same as a ‘73 but with different mounting holes. But that’s going from pictures...

The column won't "know" if the car is in park or not. That will be up to the floor shifter after the conversion. The thumb lever on the column is there on the floor shift cars to keep you from just pulling the key out whenever, you have to turn the key off and then use the lever to release it...

So, are you going to post the torsion bar numbers or anything? What makes you think the left side is weak, other than the adjuster position? Unless the bars are mismatched, a discrepancy as big as one adjuster all the way in and the other all the way out to be at the same height side to side...

First, torsion bar clocking is built into the torsion bar itself, you can't change it. Factory clocking was 30°, aftermarket bars can be anything from 30° to 0. A really old, worn out bar may be different, torsion bars "sag" just like any spring but it happens radially, so you lose hex offset...

Here's an article that was originally in Mopar Muscle. It describes the "problem" with the 833OD countershaft (the aluminum case and a .005" tolerance vs a light press fit on the regular 833's), as well as the fix, which is a set of steel sleeves pressed into the case...

If you separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm or unbolt it from the spindle you can leave the brakes alone. You may want to hold the entire UCA/spindle/brake assembly higher than just letting it sit on the bump stop. Are you installing adjustable LCA’s or just replacing the...

Ouch! You’ll have to pull the diff and completely check it out, if there was that much metal in there you should rebuild it or at least change out the bearings . Tapered axle bearings and no end play adjuster must have been pretty entertaining, especially if the thrust button was already MIA...

You may still be able to fish that other side of the thrust button out with a magnet, I’ve done it before. The only place they really sit is right at the bottom of the housing, so if you can get a magnet in there you can usually get them. Something like this… Performance Tool W25934...