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guys, i need advise. I need the measurements of an axle shaft for a 72 housing ( 8 3/4, 486 case but 4.5 bolt pattern ) to replace my existing axles with axles from Strange. I can't measure myself because i would have to destroy the green bearings on mine. Maybe one of you guys has notes or an...

me having stupid ideas again. Just for some race Weekends i want to swap out my Toyota 5speed for an automatic tranny. And swap back afterwards hahahaha Got a deal for my MT Semi's i don't use anymore to get a 727, 904 or 998 core to rebuild.. Which one is best in your eyes? 998 i don't know...

anyone using one of those? Is it a good thing to have? thinking about my Initial start after rebuild to fill and pressurize the oil pump and later to add some extra safety. is this electromagnetic valve really that expensive??? And worth it or is a cable operated valve good enough?

probably a zilion times asked. But what is the recommended Slick for a stick shift car, 3660 lbs, 350HP, 4,56:1, 72 DART with stock wheel openings. So required dimension is 28-09-15. M/T 3054ST are looking good to me. But super expensive here... USD 750.... Hoosier doesn't offer Slicks (...

well, since i build a replacement engine for my totalled 6.1 i am again at the cam question. in my old one was a crower F14011. This cam is not damaged from the accident but after just one year it has marks on the lobes. All lobes. I am not happy with the surface Quality. Dont think my valve...

one obstacle after the other.... Who is using arp bolts on the rods and has no clearance issues? My results for today is that the head on number 7 rod is way too long...:(

hm, probably a stupid question but ... 6.1 engine, stock pistons, cylinders honed. New rings standard size. Piston ring gaps. Top rings are at Max tolerance with 0.35/0.4 mm. Second rings are at max allowed size with average 0.7mm. Leave it with a note for next time changing or are there...

somehow i am in a questioning mood these days. Maybe it is because i pay 5k and more for a new 6.1 to rebuild and don't know what ruined my old one ( old.... 2010 engine, 30k mls ) ... so, 2 questions: are stock chain and lifters fine or do i better spend a fistfull greens ( EUROS) in new HP...

or is a stock replacement good enough? Since i am rebuilding my second engine i need a pump i can trust. Engine is stock, no boost, no stroker. for now...

easiest way? Anybody did that? To have clearance for 29inch tires. I was thinking of drilling a hole into the perch and into the shockplate one inch behind the original hole for the leaf springs. So there is no need to move the leaf springs... what do you think?

is that possible? currently i have a speedhut tach. On a MSD6HEMI ignition box. I am not sure if so but it is possible that the Tach is showing ie 6000 rpm but actually the engine is reving 7000 rpm? Can I put an Autometer tach parallel on the MSD Tach port to check that?

is that possible? currently i have a speedhut tach. On a MSD6HEMI ignition box. I am not sure if so but it is possible that the Tach is showing ie 6000 rpm but actually the engine is reving 7000 rpm? Can I put an Autometer tach parallel on the MSD Tach port to check that?

I know there is a code with 3 different letters. A, B, C. My code is C-B-B-B-C what i found... B code is 68102976AB C code is ?? 68102975AB / 68102977AB ??????

anything Special to pay Attention for? How is it done most easy? Actually i only want to Change the first bearing. Do i really have to cut to get it out? There is no passage in the block like i know from small blocks... I can't even find the mopar part number for those bearings.

Guys, I need to rebuild a 2010 6.1 Motor and want to replace all bolts, bearings, Piston rings and gaskets. But to order that here in Germany from a dodge/Jeep dealer i need the part numbers which are not to find online. Does some one has a source to download or scan his Manual and send by...

advises? Since i have to built a new Motor what are the absolute necessary part to change? And what are parts i can get from our chrysler dealer like gaskets, head bolts, maybe bearings..? rods are ok on a 6.1? Just new rod bolts ( maybe i just had bad luck with one ), ARP? or are stock bolts...

at 6000 rpm. destroyed two Pistons with rods. one in pieces inside, one diesappeared completely. rod caps did escape through the block walls on both sides. one half of a cap i found in the Brakes... my lil Buddy worked now 5 years under the Hood and decided to go this saturday. RIP my...

guys, where did you Mount yours? How did you route the lines and where did you Mount the nozzles? Most interesting for me is where did you put the pull cable for activating from outside? rear of the car next to power cut off or next to Driver door?

anybody experienced this? Not really correct or can I ignore it?

just being curious. Is that happened to someone else? I was torquing them not even close to specs (55 lb ft ). Guess i had 40 lb ft at that Point around and the bolts felt kinda soft and one cracked. Not sure but i got my bolts from drDiff. Can it be they were grade 5 instead of grade 8? I mean...

Hi, never adjusted this before. Can you guide me how and where to measure. And what angle is where the optimum? Can I expect movements at the pinion upwards with those caltracs? ( dragstrip a few times a year with Slicks - 12.xx second manual car ) I read a lot in the net but it is kinda...

Hi, never adjusted before. Can you guide me how and were to measure. And what angle is where the optimum? Can I expect movements at the pinion upwards with those caltracs? ( dragstrip a few times a year with Slicks - 12.xx second Manual car ) I read a lot in the net but it is kinda contrversy...

anybody running this?

did anyone ever spend a thought to mount them upside down for easy access of the adjuster knobs? Seems possible according to a tech guy from QA1

guys, i want to rebuild my 8 3/4 489 rear with a 4.86 Ratio. eaton tru track. Car has a Manual Transmission. Will see the track maybe with 50 runs a year maximum. My question is the propper selection of the pinion yoke. 7290 is the U Joint currently used. My question is about the material...

anyone experiencing high voltage if running a stock 6.1 alternator with the oldschool external voltage Regulator? I measure 15V unloaded and 15.5V when headlights on. This is a little too much or? I am afraid of cooking my Batterie. I changed already the regulators ( same type ) but no change...

I still suffer from that ticking since years so I want to replace them all this fall. Do you recommend a special brand for my some races I do or can I jump to the next Dodge / Jeep dealer for stock replacements? Anything else ( except gaskets off course ) i should replace while i am already with...

having an empty spare center section makes me think building an extra set to Change. Currently i have the same section with a 4.10 Ratio makes me run 12,7 with a 5 Speed but just using 3rd gear @ 5800 rpm in the trap. Wanne go quicker. So Ratio has to be shorter. 4.56 or even shorter? DrDiff...

anybody did this here before? Is there a way to find out the actual Torque the nut has on the yoke? I know it has a crush sleeve. Don't want to crush it more because of over tightening.

for stock K-Member. Have it already and also the qa1 shock multiple adjustable. My question is about selectiong the correct spring. I know I have too weight the car. The whole car or just the front? From that Point i can follow the qa1 instructions and calculate the rate with weight and...