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Thanks. I have not really bought any parts--just exchanged them between cars. This tends to be my first go to method. I should be able to tell if it is spark or fuel today.

The possibility of the timing chain jumping lead me to pull the engine, paint it, paint the engine bay, and restore or buy almost every mechanical or electrical part in the bay. I found a tight double roller, so that possibility was eliminated. And now it looks great under the hood too. LOL...

Sorry to be slow on this, but I just swapped the distributors back out. I got both cars back to running and will try to determine the answer to this question tomorrow. I will be hooking up test lamps at the coil and ballast and doing a fuel test. I think my guess at electrical is wrong, but I...

Do what it takes to "rig" a fuel pressure gauge to the carb. Used to be/ still is you can buy an inexpensive vacuum/ pressure test gauge at the parts store and whatever fittings you need to "tee" the gauge in. By doing this, you mean I will be checking the fuel pump, correct?

With the distributor change, this should eliminate the possibility of a bad magneto. Your post was what lead me to try the swap. Thanks. I was hoping this would have been the problem.

I did not hear or feel anything. I left the cap off and restarted it. If it would have stayed running, this would have pointed the the gas tank vent, correct? Since it died, I guess I can scratch this off of my list. I was really hoping this was the problem.

Just to keep y'all updated, here is what I have done so far. I put in a known good distributor and coil with ignitor electronic ignition. Started right up and died after three minutes. Jumped the coil straight to the battery and got the same results. Another ballast resistor just for fun. Same...

So, I am getting ready to try a few things, but I need an opinion. I have a complete ignition setup for a 318. Shouldn't the distributor be the same? The 273 is from 67 and the 318 is a 69. I should be able to do a complete swap???

Wow!!! 25 responses. Y'all have been working on this harder than me. I will not be able to get back to it again until tonight. Things I already tried--not all aimed at fixing this problem: New ballast resistor. Swapped coils with my Roadrunner. Checked spark on every cylinder with a timing...

I have no idea what is wrong with my 67 Dart with a 273. I have had two other people look at it and throw guesses, but we have not made any progress. Here is the problem: it starts great and runs fine for about a minute or two. Then it just quits--almost like the key has been turned off. It...

Thanks, but there was some red goop on the end, and it sealed fine. It was the distributor. When I adjusted the timing I did not tighten it down. And since I had pulled it out, it was not fully seated. Luckily , the shaft did not slip up and pop out. I know about making sure to turn the tape in...

I think I remember the red stuff, now that you mention it. But it looks like that is where the leak is originating. It is tight, so dang if I know??? Did not stay long looking at it, so I will have to get back to it.

Will can do. But I would not have thought the tape would hold up to the heat.

Oh crap. I totally forgot about the steering nuts. Dang it. Man, this post might have saved a life!,,

Just out of curiosity, should I have used gasket sealer on the oil sending unit?

F

Will do. I just put in a new oil sender unit, and I will recheck my valve covers and everything else you mentioned. Thanks.

Forgot the pic.

Anyone ever have a leak at a tranny bolt near the oil filter? I just dropped the engine and then mated it to the transmission. My guess: I might have torqued the left side down too tight before getting the right. Sound possible? Anything else? Also, I had thes parts left over. The top two nuts...

Thanks to all. I will give it another go tomorrow. I was just going to drop the engine as is, but I busted a motor mount. Guess it will give me an extra day to do it right with the distributor.

L

I read the posts. I even did what the posts suggested. I moved the distributor shaft at least five times. It just did not drop where I wanted. I am not sure what lead you to believe I did not read the posts. Nobody even suggested bumping the starter/crank. And wouldn't that move me from TDC? So...

I am fairly certain, that in the next five minutes, I will be dropping it into the four position and putting my wires in the correct position according to the "new"distributor position.

That is what I thought, but it is not a gear. It is a five sided stud that drops into the oil pump. It can either go into either the four or seven o'clock positions. Or other positions that are way off.

The reason I pulled the motor was to check to make sure the timing did not jump. Cleaning the engine and bay were secondary.

I will not act like I knew that. Thanks 4spd.

Well dang it, that is what my dad and I argued about for over an hour. Anyone want to argue with my dad? 4spddragtop and I are on the other side, but I had a hard time arguing with my dad since the car seemed to be having timing issues???

I can move it to two positions. First, to the 4:00 position as before. Or second, I can move it to the 7:00 position. The end of the distributor is flat and fits into a slit that is five sided. The five sided part slides into the cam. I cannot point the distributor toward the first drivers side...

Dam gear or cam gear--same thing? LOL!!!