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I think I need to meet your friend. That's a great deal, just do as everyone has said and check them out first.

If stored over long periods of time it will also get a bit of a flat spot where it was laying on the ground. Which can throw it off balance. Same is true with camshafts.

The camshaft design is very old, and outdated compared to newer cams. I used an Edelbrock Performer RPM cam in my car and it ran great, it was a little radical though with the durations.

Reason I ask is to utilize the the crankshaft I already have and block I already have. I could bore the 360 .040" over with plenty of cylinder wall left and create a makeshift 340.(In some sense) I want the short stroke of the 318 with the big bore of the 360. To make the heads I have work...

So here's the question. I have a stock 360 block that has never been overbored and would only need to be rehoned. Is it possible to put a 318 crank into a 360 block with only minor work done? Would I run into any problems with balance issues? I don't want anyone saying to just get a 360...

I think you can pull the numbers off the side of the block to determine what it is. I do not believe 73 J heads had hardened seats in them and even if they did I would get them redone. Bolting on those J heads to your 318 will probably drop compression a full point. They probably have...

So I made a thread before this one asking a couple questions and got so many different responses. I appreciate everyone putting their input in, but it left me no better off than before because so many different opinions. If there is any engine builder that I can speak to, or if there is anyone...

Ok, so whole new ball game now. I am going to be buying the RHS heads, which flow amazingly well and have closed chambers from everything I have read.

I am also curious to this, which is why I thought about running that high a compression.

The car runs strong all the way through the RPM band, but really picks up around 3,000. The pistons that are in it are not stock, I have replaced them before with cheapie pistons, and yes the block was zero-decked. I have been told that the cam is an older design and there are much better ones...

Well I plan on taking the car out whenever I go out some palce, not my daily driver though. The tires are 22.8" tall, with gearing I will be getting 3.5X. It's a 4spd manual. Heads are J heads mildly ported with 2.02X1.60 valves, roller rockers, rotating assembly is stock rebuilt and has seen...

Is there a cam that would be better suited for the job? I have been thinking about changing out the cam in it. And pump premium where I am at is 95 octane, if that changes anything.

So I am buying new pistons and looking for the most compression I can run on the street. My plans are to buy the Keith Black domed pistons Here is my set up to calculate compression Bore 3.950 Stroke 3.31 Piston head volume 61cc Piston head volume -6.20 Deck clearance 0 My camshaft is...

318 Bored .040" 10.5:1 compression stock stroke (3.31) J heads with 2.02X1.60 valves minor work done 61cc chamber Weiand Stealth high rise dual plain intake manifold Edelbrock performer RPM cam with 1.6 roller rockers bringing lift to .520/.544 750 holley DP Hooker headers Stock electronic...

Thank you very much for the information. I am by no means experienced in porting heads, so I do not think I will reach the 250 mark, but every little bit helps right?

Thank you, this should help tremendously!

I have read, re-read, and go to that thread a lot, thank you!

I will soon be attempting to port a set of "587" heads with 2.02"X1.60" valves. This will be my first porting attempt and will probably need much help! I do not know what they flow now, but from everywhere I have read in stock form anywhere from 200-215. I am looking to hopefully get around 230+...

I believe they are keith black

Sounds like the thing to do, thank you. I will update everyone tomorrow!

It is probably the camera angle, and for exhaust I have .510" lift.

Which valve spring? All of the valve springs look fine to me.

I honestly am not sure what caused it to bend, because I would think that it would hit with more than just one valve if it was to the point of valves hitting. I have already took all the remaining valve springs, and valves out that are on this head and inspected them for anything unusual or...

I just took some pictures of the valve springs. And here are the ones still on the head.

The valve springs that are in the head are a double valve spring I believe, but they are rated to .600" lift. In theory the imprint of the valve in the piston could be off because the valve was already bent when it hit? And as far as marks on the valve or valve seat I am not 100% sure...

All brand new, I had the heads redone in last November and everything was done right. They don't even have 100 miles on them yet.

I found the problem, the engine is sideways. That wouldn't of happened if it was the right way, silly people.

No nuts or bolts dropped down in it, and the heads were milled .020". I did not clay the pistons, but rather did it out in an equation of math to figure out my clearances and they were fine.

The head gasket was done not even a month ago.

It is very possible a small rock got into the engine. I usually work on the car at my work, which is a mile long gravel road to get to, and about a mile of open gravel all around it. I have had to have the intake, heads, and carb off multiple times up there.