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Has anyone ever used this product, is it any good? , its an additive for cars with flat tappet cams where zinc additive can't be used because of catalytic converters.

I'm using Lucas Oil in my car, as it tends to have a lot higher zinc additive.

Underneath is the way to go, even more so for anyone that's had their entire engine bay repainted.

Hi RustyRatRod, what's your method to help ensure these bolts remain free of leaks.?

Just curious to know what is the purpose that Chrysler intended by having the passenger rear and driver side front exhaust manifold bolts threading into the water jackets on the cylinder heads? I find by doing this it just allows for these areas to be more prone to coolant leaks.

Lucas Hot Rod Oil

Lucas Race Oil

Instead of me sort of guesstimating through memory, I will get the exact numbers when I start this car in the following day.

Krazycuda, or Trailbeast what is your thoughts on the 20w50?

I plan to keep the factory gauge operationally injunction with the Autometer to compare the two readings.

My engine is not a stock 340, its more of street / strip. I picked up a Autometer gauge the other day, just haven't installed it yet. According to the factory gauge, I've never seen this car at 70psi when idling hot or cold. Seems the car likes to always float around 25psi.

Cars normal operating temperature is 180 Oil is Vavoline race oil 20w50, car takes 6 quarts total (Kevko oil pan) car also has heavy duty external oil cooler. Oil pump is a high flow rate Melling Only 500 miles on rebuild 340 I do not know the bearing clearance I believe the car at warm idle is...

At normal operating temperature, where should the oil pressure be registering on the gauge for a 340?

Looks like this, the zinc content for VV851 was supposedly higher then most, this is the reason it says not street legal, so people will catalytic converters on their daily drivers will not use it.

Did Vavoline discontinue their VV851 20w50 (not street legal) oil ? or was it replaced with something different ?

Thanks guys for the reply's. The Suzuki does burn oil, once the oil has been changed it will need about half a quart after 3500kms or 1 quart if you leave till after 4500kms, mind you it has being doing this since I bought it with only 19000kms, the vehicle is now at 208000kms.

The factory recommendation for oil in my non Mopar (2002 Suzuki XL7) daily driver is 5W30, will running 10W30 in it cause any problems?

If you want it in stainless, Summit Racing or Jegs should carry it under a company called Performance Stainless Steel.

The fitting for the bypass hose?

Thanks crackedback, definitely going to check my block tomorrow.

Please and thanks, where do I look on my 340 to determine the year of the block?

Thanks, What brand of Hi temp paint did you use? I'm using Mopar's Street Hemi Orange but, I like the idea of a coat of hi temp clear. Hi Brad426, started with VHT 815C flame proof light gray primer, I painted my block with Mopar's period correct red but wanted to have some contrast for my...

I have their pan on my 68 Barracuda 340, fit perfect, had no problems with it. But before installation I stripped the pan down to the bare metal with paint stripper, used high temp. primer and painted it a bright red followed by a high temp. clear. Looks alot better then the half assed black...

Hello, my 68 Barracuda 340 starts up 100% perfectly fine, once off choke it will idle on its own at operating temperature then it will slowly die and stop running, upon restarting it turns over but will not run because it has no spark. This problem seems to be intermittent, car doesn't do it all...

Thanks Orv Grote, but I already changed the oil and put in Vavoline VV851 that I purchased from Keystone. The next oil change after 3000miles I will start using synthetic Red Line 12504.

Brake booster has two support brackets, may be the two straight thin black ones you have pictured.

Dartnut, already have a case of synthetic in the closet, need to wait till I put about 3000miles on the car before I can use it. DA69RT GT, this was my thoughts also, extreme heat of the summer combined with the extra heat the engine will produce with all the performance work done to it.

Hi Dan, engine is a fresh rebuild with about 60feet of driving on it at the moment, I have quit a bit of performance work done to it, I expect it to run hotter and to breakdown the viscosity of the oil faster, the reason for the 20w50.

Thank you everyone for the input, will definitely be using zinc additive with the VR1.

Just would please like to verify, does Vavoline 20w50 VR1 racing oil part# VV211 have enough zinc in it already that I will not be required to use a zinc additive.