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you can buy a tool, usally called a 'sneaky pete' for doing the job with the crank still in usually contains a corkscrew type tool for pulling the old seal out and another for pulling it back through

All street engines should run PCV otherwise you risk contaminating your oil with fuel,water,etc. the only reason i can think of you might NOT be running a PCV is maybe a race engine that is torn down frequently and the oil changed every race

Permatex PST is the answer

most people would remove the intake manifold

i cant imagine any V8 dodge engine that you have to remove the heads to install the lifters???

you learn something new everyday :)

flex fans are notorious for a blade coming off and through the rad at the most inoportune times id go with the clutch if you prefer to stay original like, electric if not

idle screws are better set with a vacuum gauge

ya...the intakes/exhausts can warp machined one for a guy a few years ago....what a pig to set up...and it was warped alot...more than 1/8"

stay with the edelbrock the idle screws have nothing to do with anything but idle fuel metering sounds like a needle or jet swap down a size or 2...buy a kit and drop it down until it doesnt do it anymore...a better indication would be to check the plug colour I run a 625cfm on a 400hp...

id get an aftrmarket gauge bluefish, and see where it is exactly..factory gauges are notoriously inacurate... i dont think its anything to worry about if you want to bring it down a bit consider upgrading that 4 blade fan...the A/C water pump should have increase flow compared to a stocker

Increase vibration transfer is also another down side only thing good about a gear drive set up is timing accuracy and you'll probably never wear it out (steel on steel gears that is...id never run a fibre gear drive)

call chrysler dealership

how much over 200F? 200 is not a big deal your boiling point would be over 250F your running temp is going to increase...more compression and thinner cylinder walls

pickup is way too far off the floor of the pan...should be almost touching to 1/4" off also a baffled pan may help

Get them shotpeened,magna fluxed, resized and rebushed and you should be fine nothing to worry about

7.514" is stock hydraulic length

Pistons usually have a notch or something to indicate the front of the engine...also, assuming they were assembled correctly, the notches in the rod that keep the bearing from spinning should point outwards.. As far as what cylinder they go in, if you didnt mark them when you dissassembled...

this noise has been in it since you got it and it only has 2000 miles on it?? where did you get it?...who rebuilt it? regardless, its sounding like a tear down and check job to me repair for piston slap is probably going to be a rebore and new pistons, but since it was just...

have you actually checked with your gauge it is ported? i.e. no vacuum at idle? just saying what i would check myself

is your vacuum advance line ported or manifold vacuum?

piston slap is the result of your bore/and or pistons being worn out The piston skirts slap the cylinder wall as they rock back and forth at TDC as the engine warms up, the metals expand and the clearances close...less noise

If its con rod knock, it is usually more evident when the engine is cruising..pull the wires one at a time and the noise should go away or be quieter on the cylinder in question A wrist pin noise will be a double knock most evident at idle...check same way piston slap is also a...

Yes

every 90 degree turn the oil makes it cuts the flow down a significant amount I use a short filter and i drilled an extra 4 holes in the plate, so it has 8 rather than 4

you dont want to use the adapter unless absolutely necessary, and it shouldnt be with you stock manifolds, use the short filter

Mopar M1 dual plane or edelbrock performer plain and simple for your described application

2nd the brake cleaner

you mean the size of the square to turn them out? yes, good possibility they are 11/32", some were an odd size...i have a socket from Snap On for them most of the plugs should come in a good frost plug kit, except for the press in one that is under the rear main cap, but parts store...

mopar sells shim for that purpose...or they used to...i bought some for my 340 a few years ago