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It's nice when a good deal falls in your lap! :thumbsup:

Glad it's working for you now!

That sucks to hear, but now you know. Are there any numbers stamped on either end of that cam?

I have 60 and 10 cc syringes and a piece of plexiglass that is a little too thin.

I measured the chambers when I got them, they were 66 to 67 cc's. The diff probably has more to do with my backyard methods that actual differences.

I don't have a way to measure port volume, but they are advertised as 190 cc. I'll try to measure the throat size tomorrow (if I don't forget).

I attached the flow data for mine. I had originally planned them for a mild cammed, 408 stroker truck engine, but that plan has changed. Currently thinking about a new engine for my Duster. I have the heads and a hyd roller, thinking I would use parts I already have. I could build a 360 or a...

You cannot put the magnum rockers on the heads you linked. Magnum rockers are pedestal mount, those heads use shaft rockers. You can't use magnum intakes either, the bolt angles are different.

That's about what mine flowed. Have been thinking about putting them on a 360 with about 10.5 to 1 comp and a hyd roller cam, 234/238 .536/.540.

What specific problems did you have with the CNC Speedmaster heads? I have a set I haven't used yet. They did get a going over and flow test by a local shop. Everything looked good.

You said you were planning another engine for the future. Put this engine together as is with the pistons you have and stick in a smaller cam. Save the bigger cam for the next engine and you can build the compression and quench to match.

I haven't seen anyone mention this, but the driver side galley feeds from the number 1 main bearing. If you pull the cam thrust plate, there should be a core plug there. If the builder pushed it too deep, it will block oil flow from the main.

Shooting out , or trickling out?

If you have a spare pick-up tube, install it on the Melling, put the pick-up in a bucket of oil and spin the pump with your primer. Tell us if you get oil flow or not. I'm very curious!

It would help if the OP would confirm if there was oil pressure on the gauge or not. Oil pressure in the engine with no oil to rockers, is very different from no oil pressure anywhere.

While it was running, did it show pressure on the gauge? As Halifax mentioned above, the pump can be installed slightly cocked and there will be no pressure.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204464986486?hash=item2f9b101976:g:76YAAOSweMxlBjqN Here it is on ebay. A little pricey to me, but I'm a cheapskate!

The pick-up screen should be parallel with the bottom of the pan. You can bend the tube up or down to get the desired clearance. It should not take much either way, be careful not to over do it.

The combustion chambers could be carboned up, this can cause high NOX. You might consider running combustion chamber cleaner through it.

Str8up hasn't been here since Dec 2016. You'll get a lot more help if you start your own thread.

One way to check if it's running out of fuel, run it till it dies, then pull the top of the carb off and see how much fuel is in the bowls.

If you haven't already pulled the engine, a compression test and a leakdown test is a good idea.

I bought mine new in 2020 based on a lot of good comments here on FABO. I haven't tried to fine tune it because the car doesn't get driven right now. That said, I bolted it on and it ran great. Immediately drove it an hour and a half from my old place to my new place, no drama. With 26 inch...

I put a 750 Street Demon on the 360 in my Duster. I like it alot!

:thumbsup:

You already have a factory spreadbore intake, why not a Thermoquad?

That's gonna be alot of fun to drive!

I mentioned it due to all the instances of bad hydraulic lifters reported here regularly. Also, others in this thread were suggesting using solid lifters on his cam.

Have you considered sending that cam to a cam grinder like Oregon and have it reground to a solid profile?

If you have none of those things, then why are you wanting to buy cylinder heads?