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I received an email from Schumacher and he said they were for the AlterKtion K-frame. Does that sound right?

I thought they were SB-BB mounts, I was sure of it. If they are in fact /6 to SB, they're yours.

Can anyone tell me if these are 73+ /6 to SB mounts? All I can tell you is that they are NOT /6 to BB mounts, so they have to be either /6-SB or SB-BB.

Did you try to use a punch and hammer it from the inside out?

I can figure out ways to get it out, but I just want to make sure how it's held in there. The drill bit idea is a good one though, thanks.

I have a 440 motor home block (about a 78) and the provision for the dipstick has some sort of plug in it. Is this plug a press fit or threaded? I'm tried to put some vice grips on it, but no matter how hard I tried, they just slipped off. I don't want to go pounding on it with a hammer and...

Who would be best to go to for bearings like that? A decent product for not a whole lot of money. The engine is basically just a stock rebuild with a cam, intake and headers. Not a lot of performance, originally I was going to rebuild this as a stocker and get another to build as performance.

It's a cast crank engine and I have the damper that was on it when I got it.

Money's tight right now, I work in the auto industry :angry7: I was hoping this would be a pull apart, clean up and reassemble job. I'm not going to throw it together only to have it lock up though. I'm going to call a machine shop down the road and talk to them about the rotating assembly...

All rod gauged out to .002" and like I said the main are .004". I'll get a HV oil pump to be safe. The rods on 1 and 3 are backwards, after flipping 3 it fit fine and I can turn the engine over. However, after turning 1 around to the correct direction (champfered side of rod to the crank...

Well I got #3 fixed, the rod is on the piston backwards. I did have the pistons out, but I didn't take the pistons off the rods. I haven't been able to figure out #1 yet. It still locks up with the piston facing forward or backwards. I plasti-gaged all the rods and they're all .002" and the...

I did check all the bearings to make sure they were all .010 bearings... and they are. However, I didn't plastigage every journal and I don't know why? I have some in my toolbox, I imagine the frustration made me over look it. It's good to take a step back and get an outside opinion, case in...

The person I bought it from said it had been rebuilt not long before sitting it as he had it in his Power Wagon briefly before swapping in a built 440. He said this one had the crank cut (.010/.010) and new bearings put in and after opening it up, everything looks fine internally... other than...

I bought a 440 that had been sitting for a while. It's a 76-ish (ext. bal.) motor home engine. I pulled the caps to check the barings in the bottom ends. All the bearing look fine, the crank went back in fine. I put the rod bearings back together (without spinning then engine over each time)...

I slowly spun the valve with one hand and filed the groove area with the other. Took care of the problem with a little patience. I made sure there was 0 resistance before pulling the valve through. Thanks for the advice, I wasn't sure if there was something I didn't know about.

The intake valves were perfectly fine, I didn't have a problem out of them at all. Also, where the keepers go on the valves are odd. The intakes have two grooves and the exhausts have 3? The keepers have matching grooves for the valves.

I have a 1978 440 from a motorhome with 452 heads. I was tearing down the heads to put in new valve seals and clean everything up. I got all the intake valves out fine. However, the exhaust valves won't come out further than the grooves where the locks are. It's like the grooves are catching...

Is the cast crank internally or externally balanced? I'm thinking it's external because of the size of the balancer. Is changing it over to a steel crank as easy as swapping in a new crank, balancer and flexplate/flywheel?

45 ft'lbs is all... That's the number I got from Autozone, is that right?

The rod caps are installed correctly per the picture. No machine work was done. I bought this motor "used", but I opened it up just to check the journals and bearings. It turned over by hand before disassembly. I'll follow that advice, I'll remove all the caps and start over. Turn it over...

Ok, a continuing problem since I got the rod caps installed. With just the main caps torqued down, the crank still spun fairly easy. The first set of rod caps on and torqued I didn't notice a difference. After the second it got a little tighter, but not much. However, after the third set...

Maybe this will help someone else int he future as well. Thanks again.

Great, thanks guys. I'd rather ask (and I tried to search first) and appear silly than let my pride hurt my wallet.

Well, my memory failed me while I had my motor disassembled. I kept the rod caps in order, had them marked 1-8. However, what I did forget was which way they were orientated on the rods. It's a 1978 440 out of a motorhome if that makes any difference. Does it make a difference if they're...