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X2. I had a new cam out of the box that was bent. A cardboard box plus having people toss these things around can cause some big headaches.

I have the Milodon Crushproof gasket on my '64, they work great. It looks and feels kinda like a paper/rubber mix. They don't have any of the usual "give" like a cork or rubber gasket so the pan rails must be perfectly straight. From what I have seen so far they don't crack or spit out the side...

wow!

Wix.

You need to tear into the motor and see what (if anything) is rebuildable first. If the hole in the pan was after the fact and caused by something like a con. rod cap going through it then chances are very few pieces will be useable.

If you don't have a belt to start with just use a piece of string. Just adjust the alt. to the middle of its adjustment slot and run the string then measure it. As stated buy a few around that size. If the guy at the counter can't figure out how to tell the the size it's usually the last 3...

This is my current setup using a '85 318 block and 302 heads. Great mpg's and power through the rpm's. Block bored .030 over, decked, stock rods and crank, .010 under, balanced ARP rod and head bolts TRW-8k285ncp30 pistons for about 9.5:1 comp Heads are stock 302's with a good valve job...

Oh and the cam specs are .372 lift, 110 L/C, 264 duration

From what I could look up it looks like you have the .030 over cast pistons for about 8.5 compression with stock open chambers. You need to check deck height though for sure. Blue head gaskets MLS probably high side of .040 compressed. If you are gonna run the aluminum intake get a different set...

Check all around the header flange with a length of hose like 67Dart273 suggested. That would tell you yes or no on the header leak right away.

If you notice yourself having to adjust the rocker adjuster a lot more then the others then stop and back it all the way and pull the pushrod to make sure it isn't bent. If it get that far then post back up here.

You can just change out that one lifter if it is bad. Flat tappet would need to be broken in, roller just drop it in and go. Unless of course the flat tappet is munching into the cam but I really doubt that. Check the preload first since it could just be the adjuster backed off or was set too...

Sounds like the valvetrain to me. I would adjust the valves and see, could be just loose or a lazy lifter if it's hyd.

Certain oils are green. As stated earlier Brad Penn, also certain weight Kendall and a couple others. Running rich won't make your oil green. Just change your oil. The plugs being black is another issue all together. Get the carb. and ignition dialed in properly. Just sounds to me like no one...

Also take a look at the timing cover and the gasket for the timing cover. It's pretty common for the aluminum to get eaten up over the years and it could be leaking passed the gasket into the bolt hole area.

I run NGK's, never had any issues. I'm sure running wise you wouldn't see any diff. between brands. I just think the machining, etc. seems better on the NGK's. I have pulled brand new plugs out of the box with galled threads, crooked electrodes, etc. I work retail and wholesale auto parts so I...

Any noises or anything before this happened? If you have zero compression that would lead me to believe either you dumped a valve or a piston. Most other failures would at least still give slight compression readings.

I have had a few cars with Unilites in them and never had an issue. My '64 has had one since I did the V8 swap a few years back and not a single problem. I will say that most times I hear of issues it's from a wiring problem caused by people not reading the instructions.

74Burntorange, Those readings are perfectly fine. Put 10-30 or 10-40 in and run it.

x2

The metal gaskets are meant for stock iron intakes. You use the ones like in the pic for aluminum or iron intakes. Even some of the factory style MLS ones don't work too often with aluminum intakes.

I know a few Oldsmobiles called for .080. Early HEI 455's and 350's around the mid 70's. I looked at an old 84 AC plug book and it showed the Toronado 5.0 calls for .080. Wouldn't run it that high but thats what it says. I'll try to get a pic later.

I know a couple guys on here run that dizzy. I think one company really makes them and a few companies market it. I would get a good coil and run it at .045.

Yep the first pic is correct. Cupped washer towards rear and thrust plate needs to be on. The cupped washer pulls the cam forward against the thrust plate then just line the keyways up and you're good to go.

The alt. with the two field connections needs one of them grounded in order to work with your regulator. If you got a higher amp unit you may want to also upgrade the charge wire or you could run into a problem (AKA fire). Also a swap to a solid state regulator or a newer setup. Otherwise get...

Most piston manufacturers I have read call for between about .035 to .040 for best quench. nothing less than about .035.

Any stock type passenger car pan works without modifications. I have this one. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-30750/

First thing I wouldn't recommend putting any sealer in unless its a road side last resort. The only things I can think of that may be leaking are 1. Freeze plug 2. head gasket 3. exhaust end stud 4. Back intake gasket. I mostly use UV dye and a mirror to check for hard to find leaks. If you...

Like the others have said its a two piece. The lip faces the front of the engine, offset the seal slightly from the parting line like a 1/4 inch and use a very small amount of sealer at the ends. Last make sure you put a little lube on it against the crank so it doesn't dry spin and ruin the new...

Did your instructions give you any specs? Most of mine say between .020-.060, I shoot for .040. You also need to remember that different manufacturers may use different TPI counts on the adjusters. So one full turn may be .060 of preload while another may end up at .040 with one full turn...