Search results for query: *

I will add what worked for me.....I simply used a 5/16-18 tap in the tube and tapped a half inch or little more...with a bottoming tap...as it will bring 99% of the chips out of which there is hardly any.....then I used a 5 or 6 inch long 5/16 bolt with a couple of deep sockets over it and used...

I agree with 273....I had a 69 Dart with headers....there was a small exhaust leak and it would sound like a lifter....bought a new set of gaskets and viola...tick went away....and yes mine was intermittent ...basically got noisier the warmer the car got... Hate to say it...good sound but too...

I kinda had a similar prob years ago...except a loud pop every so often....although I didnt have the electronic conversion I had put in an accell supercoil and distributor....well I didnt put a ballast resistor between coil and distributor...it was getting to much power and causing it to cross...

Thats the way it is...I just had my 360 apart and thats the way the oiler is secured...its the way every small block I have owned has been....I would check camshaft end play too while at it. Good luck with the build.

Thanks guys....guess I will do it tomorrow

I was noticing today on the 360 heads I have that they have the smog? holes under the exhaust port and I was wondering how I block these off as I see no threads in the holes...do I just need to tap them and plug them?

Well measured on the cam lobe and only recieved .240 of lift...that being the case I am guessing a stock cam....as .240 x 1.5 = .360 lift...so took heads off and at least it has flat tops that are pretty much flush with deck....guess I will order a new cam and lifter set.

Yeah I know duration is...but he did say it was comparable to a purple cam...I just figured if I got the lift I could guesstimate...anyways I bought a new performer intake today so I will just measure from the lifter...

I tried what you said about off the pushrod end...but something does'nt seem right....the indicator only went to .120 and was not bottomed out..I guess I will buy a gasket set and tear into it....on a note I looked through spark plug hole and hardly any build up on pistons and cylinder walls...

I was just wondering if there is a way to figure out how much lift my cam has without tearing into the engine....Could I put an indicator on the rocker arms and get an accurate measurement? I was just wondering as I bought this engine from a trusted person but he did not know the specs other...

Well I found an even better deal...a 360 out of a street rod for $400.00...with less than 3000 miles on it....has great compression and is ready to drop in...guy was very knowledgable and forthright..although no tranny with it I will manage to find one soon.

Well I talked to the guy today and he told me it has around 90,000 miles on it...to me thats high mileage....and he has no way to load it into my truck....he didnt sound knowledgeable about it at all...so I am kinda turned off of it..plus its close to 6 hour round trip there and back....hate to...

They are asking $300.00 ...and I didnt even think about the tailshaft...I will have to ask....I am asking everyone because I was leary about it anyway since it is out of a motorhome...just thought since tranny was included it was a sweet deal...there are a couple more deals in my area without...

I found a seller on Craiglist with a 318/727 combo out of an early 80's motor home...he says it is low miles and was well taken care of. If so is there any difference between what would be ran in a motor home and a car? Tranny have heavy duty clutches? Higher compression? Seems to me they would...