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ok guys I just ordered the racer brown cam today but I need to check my spring pressures. How do I do this and can it be done on the motor without taking it apart. is there a tool that I can buy to do this? Thanks Ron

no they werent sleeved. The bores look to have a bronze or brass filling inside the oil holes blocking off any feed to the lifters only on the passenger side. I swapped back to the solid cam and lifters I was running and its fine now other than the trans taking a dump See other post in the...

well in light of my recent issues with discovering my lifter bores on the passenger side are bronzed in not letting any oil get to the lifters, lets help me pick my cam please. It must be a solid cam. 340 with 10.5-1 slugs are sticking out of the holes factory j heads with slight work on...

That is exactly what I wasfearing. I didnt do this to the lifter bores it was already done. Now I guess my only choices are to go back to solid cam and lifter or tear this thing down completely. I really would like to be able to run this thing as I just got it all back together. Ron

Well I puuled the intake and all the lifters. The drivers side all lifters were solid passenger side 5 were not pumped up. After looking in the lifter bores the driver side has has large holes and you can see the oil galley but on the passenger side, someone has bushed or filled in with bronze...

yeah I hope the cam isnt hurt either. I broke it in correctly it is lunatti cam and lifter kit. I havent got a clue what to do now except to tear into it all and I dont want to do that.

yes the notches are facing down and to the front drivers rear passenger. They werent at first but are now and still no change. There does seem to be a lot of play side to side between the rockers. Factory adjustable iron rockers.

well the much awaited day has come and gone. Car is all back together but making noise from the passenger side badly. I switched from a mechanical cam to hydraulic and put new cam lifters and correct pushrods in. Adjusted the lash according to the chart to a tee setting the preload on the...

as with anything, You either love it or you hate it. I have seen harm and I have seen em live forever. The harm I have seen usually comes from people having no idea what their doing and just bolting it on and going. Or the huge hits on the high dollar pro's. I tend to agree with the guys that...

Damn I feel like Dr Frankenstien. Well after all my headaches and troubles with the ignition I finally said to hell with it and hooked up an MSD box. She fired right to life. After a nice 20 minute warm up at 1500- 2000 rpm I settled her down and gave her a quick tune. Still have to set the...

Talk about bummed out.....Today was the day to finally start my car after 3 years of work. My problem is its not getting spark. I did the elctronic ignition conversion with a used distributor but everything else is new. I wired it EXACTLY as the diagram shows in the tech archive and I get...

thanks guys, got em lashed but man that seems like alot.

it sure is, there should be a thick cork gasket under the head of the bolt.

thanks Chuck. I believe I just found it and is might be .028/.032 I hope thats correct. Ron

it is mechanical not hyd. and mp did make a 509 mechanical years back

#1 I am looking for a carb recomendation. 70 duster 340 10.5-1 comp. big valve 915 j heads gasket matched tti headers mp 509 lift mech cam and edelbrock performer dual plane. #2 the intake doesnt cover what I think is the exhaust crossover, the gasket covers it but the intake doesnt. Is this...

but if I replace the pushrods I will have to replace the rockers as well right. So my current pushrods and rockers will work ok with hydraulic lifters is what your saying?

motor is a 73 340 rebuilt with 10.5-1 comp. trw .030 over slugs. heads are j heads 915's with 2.02's rocker arms are factory adustables so I will more than likely have to run a mechanical cam and solid lifter. Intake is an edelbrock performer and I will top it off with a 750 holley mech...