Search results for query: *

Believe so which would be a good score, also you can check to see the casting number on the block next to the cubic inch casting and look that up. hears a link to casting numbers mopar casting numbers

Looking at the lifter valley i wonder if you got a late 80s early 90s pre magnum block seeing that theres mounting holes for a roller cam lifter guide retainer plate.

Yeah that last part sucked but had to do it which it did save my ***!! And that phrase That ain’t a typo lol and your welcome to use it lol

Sorry forgot to update the post, from what i remember the lifters did collapse which threw everything off I ended up using a used lifter from a previous engine build and took the lifter apart, shoved something in it to make it mimic a solid lifter, put that in and did my clearence checks and...

Welp crap Now thinking about that its possible the lifters bled down. Did some research on getting a more accurate reading so will recheck the clearence again soon and keep you guys updated

Alrighty finally got my degree wheel and degreed the cam and did the procedure to verify LSA and got 108 and and moved on to check the intake centerline and got 104! So my understanding is if it’s lower than the LSA it’s advanced or if it’s higher it’s retarded, correct me if I’m wrong on that...

Well that’s just fantastic!! Am trying to avoid taking the pistons out but if I have to i will. Need to get a degree wheel soon so I can degree that cam but will keep you guys updated.

Cant remember how much it was shaved down unfortunatly unless i can get a thickness measurement from a stock head and compare it to mine but idk if castings are consistant to where i can get an accurate reading. I got it from American Custom Cams, told them what was working with and recommended...

Found the numbers on top of the piston. H814CP Which is Speed pro hypereutectic pistons. Looked it up and its for a magnum engine 1992 to 99 so i believe the cam is whats causing the problem. I frkn missplaced the cam card too when i moved into my new house so im gonna have a long day looking...

I got confused, thought you were asking about how I got the measurement for lift but I did the clay thing, put the head on the block, put the rocker arms on the cylinder I was checking clearence for, rotated the engine while looking at the exhaust valve opening via looking at the rocker arm...

No I just put the dial indicator on the lifter itself, not the center but top ridge of the lifter and measured how much lift by turning the engine over until I reached max lift then multiplied that to the rocker arm ratio of 1.6 which I’m pretty sure thats the ratio these magnum engines have...

I’ll look into doing that. Can’t remember the brand of piston but hopefully it’s marked on top of the piston or something. I wanna try to avoid that but if I have to I will or mane change the heads.

Ok was finally able to check the piston to valve clearence and found out the exhaust valve hit the piston. This is without the gasket by the way and the intake barely hit when I spun it the other way... I checked the lift on the cam with a dial indicator to make sure the cam is what it is, and I...

Ill do the clay method and check it out. I think I was just cautious about the piston to valve clearence at the time since I’ve read about other builds being close with flat top pistons. I remember it did detonated a couple times when I really got on it but let off quickly. Maybe it took a toll...

Block has been decked and has .020 over flat top pistons, no valve reliefs, Cam is a .490/490 lift with 108 lob separation. I bought the short block part from a guy that was gonna build it up but he never got around to it, never said how much it was decked. Heads were rebuilt from a shop that i...

Piston to valve clearance is close

I had another thread earlier last month about a possible intake manifold leak on my 5.2 magnum in my 72 dart which I thought I fixed but after taking it for a drive noticed a proof of white smoke coming from the exhaust coming from a stop light and was in oh crap mode thinking it was the gasket...

There wasn’t any sludge under the intake either so that was good. Cleaned up the surfaces and put the intake on dry with no gaskets and noticed it was sitting higher on the passenger side. took it off and found the little tab that holds the intake gasket up was getting in the way of it sitting...

Also on the intake gaskets, the drivers side looks like it has a good inprint on it but the passenger side the lower part of the gasket it seems like it wasn’t sealing right especially where the intake port was where the oily plug was at so I’m pretty sure the intake gasket failed.

Ok did the other bank and all are at 4 to 5% leakage so I think I’m good there. Took the intake off and found an oil stained area where it seemed oil was getting in the port that goes to the cylinder that has the oily plug as well as a small streak in the intake also so I think it’s definitely...

I think it is too but Got to do the cylinder leak down test only on one side so far with the one that has the oily plug and That bank of cylinders were 4 to 5% leakage except the oily one at 3% which since it’s oiled up I figure it would leak less but will get to the other bank hear in a bit. I...

No mayonnaise on top of the head. Plugs next to the oily plug look nice and brown with the exception of number 5 but doesn’t look green and has a slight brown which is hard to see in the pic.

Will try to do a leak down test on it hopefully later on today. Also did drail the oil since it’s due for an oil change anyways and didn’t notice any sludge coming out.

Yes I’m using a pcv however just noticed the hose was cracked where it connects to the throttle body.

Hears a pic of the valve cover. Did Check the dipstick and it wasn’t that color brown tho but Normal oil.

I have a 1998 5.2 magnum engine in my 72 dart with mild cam 490/490 lift 108 lobe separation, cant remember duration, speedmaster 4bbl intake and fitech, stock exhaust manifolds, stock rebuilt magnum heads that have been milled .010, blocks been milled but dont know how much was taken off and...

Have you tried an engine core supplier if there’s one in your area. That’s how I found mine and went by the code number on the block. Got mine for 150 for the long block. Might try and engine shop too. Sometimes they have core blocks instock

Awesome how to krazycuda!!

That's the same one I have in my block and since the original plug had the hole I figure I do same but I had no luck finding a plug the had the hole in it so I drilled a hole to mimic the original plug Drilled it close to the original size but must of been a tad to big to give me this problem...

Nice good info nm9stheham! It was 3 bolts.