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No matter how much you and a lot of other people want to blame the fan, it has no effect at 50mph, its a physical impossibility. Sorry. The crack at the bottom of the block was welded properly by someone who specializes in welding cast. I now have the car back and does not overheat running or...

Havent seen anything myself and have not heard anything from the guy working on the car, do you have any pictures?

A few updates. -The block was cracked but Im not sure where, in any case the mechanic had it welded. -He started it up again but there was a huge pressure build up and a freeze plug was thrown out of the car. -This made him suspect a problem in the heads. He reasoned that the engine block is...

So, I left the car to a very good mechanic last month who has been trying to solve this problem. He started going through everything I had already done and some more. He says there was garbage blocking some coolant passages which he found after pressure testing it. Unfortunately he says that...

I have ordered a new pump, fixing the small sound coming from the radiator cap at 230 Fahrenheit didnt lead anywhere.. Am still doubting that it is the pump, but my dad is 100% sure it is so we have a bet where if it is the pump I pay for it and if it is not he pays for it. Pretty good deal I...

Thanks for the link, how high or tall is that piece do you know?

Yeah its not the best fan or setup, however the only driving Im doing for the moment is at 40-45 mph.

Yeah then a small noise/leak there is not good, Im going to put a spacer or gasket in the bottom of the "well" for the overflow cap make sure its tight and see what happens.

After the second test when I shut the the car down at 110 Celsius or 230 Fahrenheit I did notice that there was a slight noise coming from the cap on the overflow tank. Judging by how hard the hoses become it seems like there is significant pressure but maybe a small leak here could be problematic?

I tested the water pump using the suggested test, it could empty the radiator and run out of water in a few seconds so it works pretty well. I then flushed the cooling system using a product from STP, the water coming out after was really clean but its not that surprising after having emptied...

Just back from the garage, I had the original radiator installed and we put a Co2 meter at the opening to the radiator, no sign of Co2 at all. The guy was nice and didn't charge me for the 15 minutes. I also did BigBlockMopars test before this smelled for exhaust, could not smell anything...

I might have got a time for a garage to check if there are high levels of co2 in the coolant tomorrow. Unfortunately the garage that could pressure test the system dont have another time for a few weeks. Also test started the car today and immediately inspected the exhaust very closely and Im...

The hose in the photo was only temporary after installing the new cooling system, the lower radiator hose that I have run is in the photos below. Its not perfect but alot better for flow than the one in the first photo. Its super beefy, you cant collapse it with your hands.

I use Zoomig nasal which works great but you have to take it at the very first sign otherwise its pretty noneffective. Will have to check it out.

Unfortunately I didnt get to check for combustion gases in the coolant today as I woke up with a migraine and had to cancel the slot in the garage, will hopefully get a new time on Monday.

Yeah it does stick in quite a bit compared to a metal one, it would also make sense as the problem sprung up after that change.. I looked at the lower hose while revving the engine at 4000rpm and it didnt collapse, that type of hose apparently does not need a spring but if the next few checks...

There is a ton of great stuff here I have to check. For the moment I have a garage booked tomorrow just make sure that its not a head gasket/crack before doing any more. Will report back afterwards and get started on the tests posted :)

I installed my aluminium radiator with rubber so it was not touching any metal but specifically ran a wire to ground it, thought you have to ground it to prevent electrolysi? But have no idea just read that somewhere..

Great, I will check that the heater core is flowing and bypass it if necessary. So the bypass fitting is the one below? You asked if it was the correct size? I have never changed it but I dont know if it is original. Can it be too small and restrict flow or?

Havent changed the water pump at any point, did compare the impeller blades to an LA water pump online and the blades were the right direction, provided that picture online was accurate. But like you said, the new V-belt does not have a great contact patch to the water pump.. It seems doubtful...

What is the bypass fitting? I actually have no idea how the heater core flow is. Could be clogged for all I know, you mean that the heater core should take some of the heat from the engine?

Yeah your kinda right I am shooting down ideas. But I checked the water pump shaft-impeller and its not slipping... Im just trying to find new therories that I havent checked. Like what BigBlockmopar said, that actually could be the reason for this overheating! Its a good point because its...

Haha seems like a fair deal :D Thats a good point I actually have changed that v-belt and it is perfect for the crank and power steering now but a bit too big for the water pump... Can it really slip that much? Is the water pump that hard to pull..?

I really wish that was the case but the impeller is not loose from the shaft at all, the water pump looked good. Nice blades, a little surface rust. I havent really let the engine got hot enough to puke coolant, just once and it did puke from the overflow tank. You can check for leaks by...

Yup, did that with an IR gun..

I cant remember exactly but the vacuum seems healthy, how so? Not sure about the size of the pulley either, have no access to the car, right now but about 15cm. The car has run cool with this pulley in the past.

The upper hose gets hot as hell, same as the radiator. The water pump did however look fine though. I haven't had the heater on I will give it a go!

The interior passages of the lowest freeze plugs looked pretty bad like it the photo. I cleaned them out as well as I could. You just made me think of something .. Long story short one of the lower freeze plugs was replaced by a rubber one like shown ... could it have gone in too far and is...

I tested by just filling it multiple times and seeing that it emptied very quickly. So like your saying its not the best test. It is possible that it has become clogged, but its hard to believe that both radiators have become clogged while one in use and one on the shelf.

I have not checked inlet and outlet temps through the rad so that is a good point thanks! However the fan shouldnt make a difference at 50 mph and the radiator it very tight up against the opening in the front, so its a pretty good seal. But there has to be something else wrong, with the way...