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At idle it is the same both under a load and not. Cruising down the road it does it under a load (headlights on or turn signal on) but when not under a load the gauge sits steady at 14v.

It is an electronic regulator, standard alternator with 2 field wires, MSD 6al ignition (not sure if that matters) and I completely rewired the engine bay. I haven't had time to try a new alternator or regulator yet, 2 jobs and more important life issues come first.

So are you saying that you have a bone stock all original car? You have never upgraded anything on your car? Everything is to factory specs? You must be busy on this forum if you critique every modification people make, engine builds, transmission swaps, rearend swaps, wiring, brakes, ect...

. I removed the ammeter because it burned out on me. I didn't feel like getting stranded again so I converted it. The factory did a lot of stupid **** and I have changed a lot of it. I don't recall anywhere in my posts that I asked for anybody's criticism about what I do with my car.

I still haven't remedied the problem yet. I need to try a new alternator yet, haven't had time to work on it.

Put the HEI distributor in last night and the truck fired right up. Thanks for all the help. I didn't realize how easy it was to convert over from points to the HEI setup.

Ok. Thanks for the help everybody.

So I have a HEI one wire distributor with the coil pack on top of the cap but I am not 100% sure how to wire it. I know it only needs one wire that is switched 12v but the part that I am confused about is the wiring hooked to the ballast resistor. I have a 2 prong resistor, one wire hooked to...

Thanks everyone for the help. I will check it out this afternoon. It is outside and the temp is in the single digits so I don't have the most ambition to work on it right now.

My wood hauling/ snow plowing truck has a 1965 383 motor with the points ignition. I was driving it today and it was starting and running good until I got home this afternoon. I backed into the wood shed and unloaded it and when I went to start it again it fired up for about 3 seconds and died...

New alternator belt and I have had it tight enough to play a tune on. Thanks for the suggestion though. Thanks 67dart273 also. I will try checking it with the meter first then I will try the relay and wiring like you suggested. I probably won't get time to work on it until the weekend.

My car is a 74 Duster with a 360. I am having issues with the voltage gauge bouncing and the lights flickering. The engine bay has been completely rewired with all new wiring, all of the lights have been wired with relays, headlights are converted to H4 halogen, msd 6al box with blaster coil...

Thanks for the suggestions. Belts are tight. I don't have the amp meter anymore. I converted the entire dash to aftermarket mechanical gauges and installed a voltage gauge. The article in the post by 67Dart273 is exactly what I did to eliminate the amp gauge and install a volt gauge. Wire from...

I am having issues with my Duster. When driving at night the lights constantly flicker lightly and the voltage gauge bounces from 14-16volts constantly. I rewired the entire engine bay with all new wiring. I have a ground from the motor to the body, from the body to the battery, and a wire from...

I did the same thing on my 73 duster. I left the factory sending unit in the tank and bought the 70-10 gauge. It works good and it is pretty accurate on my car. You shouldn't need to change the sending unit unless it is bad and sending a false reading.

Does anyone know of a company that makes a 1-1/2" fuel level gauge? I am customizing the dash in my 74 Duster and I can't seem to find one.