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OK.... i had to take some time away from the car to get my bearings. my Chrysler 100 amp alt was a no go as the pulley was seized to the shaft and the shop cracked it. so i had them build me a 100amp, internally regulated delco unit. i made some brackets and got that sucker on there with a...

HA, THATS AWESOME! i work for a third party contractor that manufactures those mil spec aerospace connectors, i design them and never thought of using them for an automotive application. i love it! im totally stealing this idea man! thnx

right, but the car was running and driving fine before the fire with no other dedicated ground on the ecm... not really sure about how it was all set up though. I cant find an ecm online...gunna have to start calling around. also, no one really said if they though a bad ecm would allow the...

so i put a dedicated ground in the ignition ecu, no change. i think the shock was just because i was suppling power to the brown ignition 2 wire while it was running. still will only fire in "run" position, then dies....i have no idea what the hell to do.... does anyone know of any mopar...

well im wondering if the ignition module shocked me because i had a jumper on the brown ignition 2 wire (which normally doesnt have current flowing after start up)??? could supplying current through that wire temporarily "short" the module? i will definitely put a dedicated ground strap on...

some new developments... so just to humor myself i picked up another ballast resistor, new out the box it had the same resistance values that the one currently on the fire wall had. i even plugged it in and tried to start the car, no dice. same issue as before, would start then die with key in...

so i got the steering column fully disassembled and installed the new switch. tahnks a ton for the insight guys, i hit the pin with a punch and it shot right out. i went to run some tests and it started doing the same thing the old switch did. would start but looses power when the key springs...

glad you got past that issue... assume it was smooth sailing for you? did you finish up the repair ok? I have a question for you if ya did... im changing out an ignition switch myself. when you got to the steering wheel lock plate how did you remove the pin? did you use the chrysler removal...

so i took the alternator to a shop, pulled it apart... fried diodes and such. so i got my hands on a chrysler 100 amp alternator, having it refurbed. should be ready tomorrow. im going to have to fab some new brackets to hold it... i got an ignition switch from the local napa today too. price...

updates... i unhooked the alternator from the system and unplugged the ignition cylinder from the harness on the steering column... I "hotwired" the car by jumping the power wire on the ignition harness (dash side not key side) to the ignition 1 and 2, then i jumped over to the start wire...

one last thing for tonight... so i noticed while poking around that on the new harness there is a grey wire with a female spade (non insulated) on it by the ignition wires on the passenger side of the harness in the engine bay. I did not know where to terminate this when installing the new...

also... I didnt think it would be the alternator because it looks like its newer and not original...but sparks from it. Like you said 67dart, dead short and harness goes pff.... new alternator now??? maybe ignition cylinder and/or wiring??? Looks like I gotta go tear into that ignition column...

un hooked the alternator from the system entirely, and put a charger on the battery then tried to start it... still does the thing where it will run if i hold the key in the forward "start" position, wont stay running if I let it spring back to the "run" position. i am going to pick up...

so updates.... i had completely unwrapped the dash side harness and checked for melts/shorts in the system. no sign of damage (other than the fried amp gauge wire i replaced) then i wrapped it all back up. I havent been in the ignition column yet though... i also bypassed the factory power...

great stuff! really did a good job of illustrating the system. i was on the verge of something like that... imma work on cleaning up the system and see if the issues clear up. thanx for the link!

So Im a brand new MOPAR guy, just bought my first one last week...74 Duster with a built 360!!! Unfortunately it caught on fire on the drive home! Was driving back and stopped for gas, noticed smoke, opened hood, saw flames, put it out quick... it was small, engine bay side only, main power...

not trying to thread jack here, but im having a similar issue... Just bought a 74 with a 360. It caught on fire in the same place on the harness. apparently a fuse-able link needs to be there. have a new ballast resistor in there, but something shorted out somewhere else in the dash. apparently...