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I bought a tube of RTV. I'm going to seal the whole area behind the o-ring since it doesn't work.

I tried to fix my leaky tank years ago with a new o-ring. It still leaked after. I didn't use RTV on the tank though. Looks like I'm going to have to try that. I'm tired of the leak. Over 20 years now.

I had those shock extensions on my coronet. You really could get some height with those.

I had air shocks at one time. Too stiff. The coil shocks are much better. They have a good ride and allow give when adding more weight.

Good for you. Auto school got me nothing but a tire changing job which I quit.

I went to a trade school and had my car on an alignment machine. It would pull and the machine said it was in spec. The numbers are useless. I now use just a square and a tape measure and trial and error. These cars have a mind of there own.

For my car, there's a little spacer and sleeved nut they use for the air shocks or coil covered shocks to move it out further. Keeps it from rubbing because the shocks are bigger in diameter.

I use rubber. The thought of having to grease all the control arm bushings in addition to everything else seems kind of nuts. Unless your doing timed events, I wouldn't bother with poly.

The machine shop guy told me they put the bushing into the arm first, then put the pivot pin in last. I didn't question his knowledge. I just said ok and played dumb. He had the ZZ top beard going. It looked fine when they was done. Total cost $40 which was 1/2 price since I removed the old...

When my lowers went out, is was pretty noisy. Like every bump.

Ok. I'm joking. It had other problems also. The lower rubber bushing was totally destroyed. No press needed to remove. The shells were ok still. I just carefully mangled them with a jig saw and dremel and screwdriver.

Well I finished it! Its much safer then it was. It doesn't try to change lanes when hitting the brakes anymore. It feels pretty good. The pivot shafts are well torqued now. I'll be checking them regularly.

Its a deep socket with a sleeve liner made out of packing tape. The socket is hopefully going to pull back out.

JB weld: Compressive force = 10000 psi Shear force= 4000 psi Just using it as a shim:

Don't think I'll be removing the k-frame. So if the tube is welded on the inside, how do you get it out? I might just use some JB weld and make it round again. Or maybe weld some more material inside and file it round.

I just had new bushings put in. I hope it wasn't a mistake not using new pivot shafts:

1970 Dart.

A better shot. Its out of round. Looks like the Dart won't be going fishing anytime soon. Funny thing is the pivot shaft still looks ok even though polished. Must be very hard steel. The other side still looks round.

I'm just south of you. So you're saying that it's all one piece? Lots of grease.

Kind of like the strut rod I guess. I just checked the inside bores with a checking tool. One is enlarged on the end, the other one is not as bad. Looks like they are made of brass. Seems like it wouldn't be that difficult to replace as long you don't need a press. Do they sell these...

When you put the pivot shaft into the K-frame hole by itself loosely, how tight is the fit suppose to be? Is it zero play or tiny amount of play? I assume once you tighten the nut to 145lbs, you would think it would not matter. When I took my lower control arms outs, the pivot oval...

Did you get these to work?