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lol kinda makes a guy wonder why he even needed the shocks?? seems to me he coulda taken them off lol

i wasnt saying cap it, I was saying alter the cap a bit and use it as a complete replacement frame, after its taken apart a rewelded.

buy the cap from year one,,,the monkey they used to weld them together got shot last week so you will need to take it apart and re weld it anyway. just take a little off the bottom width before it goes back together and its now a replacement part, plus ya gotta cap the top,,,lmao,,,childs...

I was wrong I guess????

I have also done everything to my car (and more) that you are about to do so pm me if ya need any help,,,,,by the way,,,nice welder choice. Ive used 4 bottles of gas and 4 large rolls of 035 wire on mine but im done,,,I hope. Good luck and remember when ya get a little upset about the work left...

save the damn thing!!!!!!! even if the rails are junk,, make or get new ones, they will be ok just ahead of where the pics show the damage but will be junk all the way to the back. There are a few places that make caps, buy them and narrow them up and use them as dirct replacements...

they will have stock as well,,,and new springs will lift your car up if you have old worn out ones on there now. I have seen new stock springs raise the rear over 4 inchs,,,, you know this already but i'll write it anyway,,longer spring hangers n the rear,,you could even fab up some new front...

I see yer a good ole canadian guy. I bought my HP springs right from the mopar performance parts at the local chrysler dealership,,they seemed like the best deal and they have several choices from stock granny cars all the way to race (oval and 1/4 mile) and they have the right springs that are...

I used the ones from year one on my car,,,you can see them a bit in the pics in the members restoration page under "my currant beater". word to the wise tho. The ones from year one look like they were welded together by a half blind monkey, I had to cut them completely apart and then weld them...

so,,,jsut leave them loose,,,put the motor and tranny in,,,tires on (with ramps),,tighten the torsion bars up until the tires look straight,,, then tighten lower arms to spec,,,,,is this about right ???

ok,,,k frame is out ,,got a complete rebuild, including the lower control arms that were removed for new bushings, now,,, at what position do I tighten then back in at. mounted back in place hanging in static position? kinda new at this some help would be great.thx

Holy $%#@ if someone drives by my friggin garage with a mustang for trade,,I'm tellin ya,,these bushings got me so mad i'd consider it!!!!!

LMAO,,we kinda danced around everything here,,,,but I think 68 sedan got me what I needed to know,,,thx everyone

I have no ride hieght,,the k member is on my work bench,,,I took off the lower control arm,,,I dont know where the torsion adjuster saddle needs to be when I tighten the control arm back onto the k member.It almost seems to me that I have to wait until its all installed with the motor in and the...

nothing is loose,,I just dont know where the shaft needs to be before I tighten the nut

I took my k memer apart to change bal joints and to clean it up for a paint job. When I took the lower control arm of the k member I never noticed where the adjuster saddle was located in the control arm. Now when I go to install the lower control arm shaft into the k member it looks like i need...

you have a big block,,they said a v8,,if they are using a small block the issues could be different. as well,, if you get a 187 oil pan for the big block u might not have had the same troubles,,not 100% sure tho but it fixed my 383 steering isues

I fabbed my own if you want to see pics they are the first 3 pics in the "My currant Beater" thread in the members restoration area.

I might be out to lunch here but I would never use shocks to raise or lower any thing its simply not what they are designed to do, thats why the are are called a shock absorber not a shock lifter. shackles will do what you want, if you want a 1" lift above stock height then you need 2"s longer...

I would think that It would help a lot but not as much a square and not as much as the two welded together with the plate.I paid about 15 bux for two 5 ft chunks of 2x2x1/8 from a scrap steel yard.you can see them in members restorations if ya care to. good luck with whatever you chose tho.

you can make em for about 15 bux just find a pic and have at er

the k frame on my duster is out of a /6 and it looks just like that with a few waves in it lol. I'm just gunna weld a nice little chunk of 10 ga. on the bottom ,cut to fit. will look better than new and could'nt hurt with the 383 in there now

does anyone have the frame measurment spec sheet that they could post for a 71 duster so I can measure if my frame is straight

I finally finished them and they are posted in the members projects section,, thx fer the help

why are the bars on a slant smaller??? I thought that engine was the heaviest one they put in .Unless its the torque??