Search results for query: *

You will have to release all tension on the torsion bar, remove clips at rear of torsion bars and pull them out of the lower control arm. Then pull lower control arm...viola it is out...I would suggest checking bushings while that far into it. It is a little laborious but really doesnt take to...

What you need to buy is a setup from a 73 up A body...ie Dart, Duster etc....get everything you can...upper control arms, spindles, proportion valve...etc.... I personally have aftermarket upper control arms and am using spindles off an f body aspen....people here will say dont do that but I...

Personally I would go the way of just getting the correct setup and stay away from the scarebird stuff....I know some have had good luck with it...but I did order a bracket kit from them and was not impressed with it...I did not like the fact that a nut is welded in place instead of just...

I bought all moog brand thru rockauto.com and paid around 300 or so....I do not have any specialty tools and did it all myself....I do have a friend who has a press and only used it to press bushings....and had a local tire shop install upper ball joints for next to nothing....I probably have...

A friend ... used to remove them by putting the joint caps back on and squeezing in a vice and then pumping grease in to push out the caps in the shaft itself...worked everytime....make sure clips are removed though:D...I would definetly not drive with that u joint....I would guess its integrity...

Thanks everyone....figured after looking at it...I wedged a couple of screwdrivers under the lip of the spring eye and used a piece of pipe and it came out with a little pounding...but will probably use a friends press to put back in new ones....

What is the best way to remove the bushings on the springs and shackle? Is there any right up on it as I searched the forum but could not find any

Yep...just checked it out...25 bucks for a set of four...thanks for the input...that price sounds reasonable...:burnout:

Thanks...but at 25 bucks a bolt that will be 100 bucks.....I dont understand why mancini is so expensive....oh well if I have to I will...lol

I am in the process of removing leaf springs to install new bushings...I put the impact to it and the nuts only came about half way down the thread and seem to have welded themselves on....so I am just going to cut the u bolts off...I cannot even turn them with a long breaker bar...and yes I did...

I have a set from just suspension....havent got them on the road yet but had a friend who is a fabricator look at them and he said welds looked excellent and plus they were gusseted....I got them on sale about a year ago for 150.00 bucks without bushings or ball joints....I put moog offset...

Exactly....I prefer Mopar Action over Mopar Muscle....but a business is going to cater to its advertisers....there is no way they are going to bad mouth them...after reading all the problems with cap...it would take a lot to even get me to think about buying from them....

I would replace at the very least the ball joints...they are easy enough...any competent shop can remove and install them for cheap...unless you have the socket for the uppers...lowers are easy...but back off torsion bars if you do the lowers...the lower control arm bushings can be a pain...but...

Okay...I have the same set of bushings...with just suspension control arms...I have not installed yet...but know they fit tight with extra wahser on...and way too loose without...will keep them installed when I get back home and get the rest of my components...

What do you mean backwards....I believe 72 was the last year that the pitman arm connected in from the bottom...after that thru the top of the steering linkage....not sure what to do about that...I got my manual box from a 69 Valiant..but I have a 72 dart...I am sure there is a way to do...

I dont know...cheaper doesnt mean better....mkes me wonder what bushings and ball joint are in it....plus durability of the part...they do have good reviews on ebay....but... I just believe in good parts...I have had too many close calls with cheap parts

Look here I asked the question of whats needed for manual swap.. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=134728

PM sent....does the pitman not have a master spline.....I will mark tomorrow then. Thanks for the advice...now if someone will answer my brake question....

What is the easiest way to get the pitman arm off the spline? I bought a pitman arm puller and the threads stripped out as soon as I put the impact wrench to it....maybe by a better puller but I dont want to put alot of money in a tool I will only use once for now

Rebuild kit... http://www.dodgeconnection.com/catalog/item/2901766/6770008.htm

Firm Feel has kits.... http://firmfeel.com/manualst.htm

Thanks...got all of it for 35 bucks and some other stuff too

Thanks....thats what I was wondering....whats the reason for keeping the pitman? I am going to put a new one on...unless its an alignment thing?

OK...found a 69 valiant in local wrecking yard with a slant 6 and manual steering...I asked how much for steer box and was told 35 bucks...I said ok and pick up monday...anyway what else should I get with it...Mine is a 72 dart with power steer...I really dont want the valiants column but I know...

That is the swap I am doing now....depending on the year of your a body car you will need the larger upper ball joint control arms from another a body...do not use the Volare control arms...get everything you can....check out this link... http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/spindles.shtml and...

Por 15 seems to smooth out really good even using a brush...I just painted all my control arms, spindles and lower control arms and not a brush mark or run anywhere...I droppes a lower control arm on the concrete from 4 feet up and didnt even scratch it...tough stuff here....but like others said...

I just ordered all Moog parts from Rock auto all except pitman arm and idler arm for $260 including shippping...I ordered thursday night around 9 pm and recieved all the parts on fed ex saturday morning...and that was standard shipping....I am fully impressed...all American made parts.

Are you talking about to switch to disk brakes? If so you would need the disk spindles and caliper mounting brackets. There is a kit out there from scarebird.com for $105 that converts your drum brakes to disk...you have to cut the hub out of your drums and use toyota previa rotors with chevy...

http://www.p-s-t.com/c-154-drop-spindles.aspx ...for some reason my first reply did not go thru

I just seen these in mopar action and muscle...they are available thru pst...kinda pricey at $479.00...but they offer a 2 inch drop.. http://www.p-s-t.com/c-154-drop-spindles.aspx