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ALright, I guess I'll try it out on the back. Isn't braided pretty expensive though? I will try to make do with the original lines.

Are they supposed to mount up front or back? I think that back looks better but looks don't matter if you can't bleed them. Any help?

Just bought spindles, calipers, rotors, and brake lines for $180 at my local junkyard. You got a deal.

I'm going to get the sleeve you linked and 2 of these: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-1968-89-Chrysler-Type-Upper-Ball-Joint,38296.html

Alright thanks a lot crackedback. I'll order them today and hopefully get all this stuff setup this weekend.

Alright, I think I'm going to buy two of these and weld them on. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chrysl...eve,47344.html Those are the large ball joints right? Does anyone know the OD on them?

I looked at Dr. Diffs site and couldnt find any tapered sleeves. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places. crackedback: I don't really understand what you mean by the second option. Weld the sleeve onto the ball joint? I'm missing something I think. EDIT: Is this all I need to get...

Do you know where I can find the company? I was thinking about adding bracing after boring it out, but if it's too thin then I won't bother.

Thanks for the quick response abodyjoe. In your opinion is it possible to bore out the current 72 Upper Control Arm to fit a large ball joint? Also, do I need to get the proportioning valve from the Volare or will the Dart's be fine?

Alright, I know there has been plenty of discussion about this topic over the past but I have a few specifics in mind. First of all, I have a 1972 Dodge Dart Swinger small bolt pattern disc brakes in the front and drums in the back. I recently bought 1976 Volare big bolt pattern disc brake...