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If you use a large-bore manual master cylinder, the effort needed isn't too bad. I have the small-bore one because I like to make life difficult for myself.

Large bore MC will require less braking effort from the driver. FYI, the difference between drum and disc brake MC's is the residual pressure valves. The valves were 10 psi for drums and 2 psi for discs. The older style wheel cylinders for drums required this in order to keep them in position...

No power assist means not as many moving parts.

I used some cheap acrylic caulk that was in stock. Not going to win any shows, anyhow.

I've bought some things from these guys: http://www.inlinetube.com/ . They sent the brake lines and didn't abuse me a lot.

Gus, I'm in the same situation, doing a disc brake upgrade on my '67 9" drum car. I was thinking of getting some pre-bent lines to fit a '73 era distribution block that I got on FABO. It has a warning light switch, proportioning and metering valve. It's also good to do your own flares, if...

I guess if you still have one of the original shoulder bolts in place, that would work. It seems like the shoulder area is what locates the caliper in place.

Good luck finding those. I've been trying for a while. The K-H Mustang brakes use the same bolt, but with a coarse thread. I'll post here if I find a source.

That type of either/or test is great to know about, Redfish. Way better than just replacing parts. You had similar good advice when I was trying to figure out my transmission noise. Thanks again.

You can get an old set of spindles from a pre-1973 A body that uses the same upper control arm as the 9" drums, but uses a bigger lower ball joint, that's held on by larger bolts. The K-H calipers and rotors are available at Rock Auto and other places like that. Small bolt pattern.