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What brand of sway bar?

No hurries, thanks!

Old thread, I know. But could you post a pic of your sway bar install with the scarebird disc conversion? When I did mine, the Addco sway bar no longer worked, as it hit the brake caliper on tight turns.

I'm sure the bracket will fit reversed, but am unsure if it will interfere with the Lower Ball Joint, or something else. And, of course, the bleeder valve will be on the wrong end of the caliper. Not sure if the caliper can be swapped to opposite sides as well.

I installed the Scarebird Front Disk Brake adapter on my 66 cuda last year, and it is working great. However, because of the forward position of the caliper, I had to remove my Addco sway bar. Does anyone know if the adapter can either be rotated 180 degrees to move the caliper to the rear, or...

FWIW, delete the bad diagram from this thread, lest somebody see it and assume it is correct since it is so well drawn! It will also pop up on a google search, and could lead to problems for an unsuspecting soul.

AWESOME! And they eliminated the need for Torsion Bars! :mrgreen:

Maybe a couple more clarifications, to go along with fstfish66: 1. Did it start dragging on the old calipers suddenly, gradually, or ???? 2. Had you changed anything on the old setup that coincided with it starting to drag, eg new pads, etc? 3. How high is the pedal, and how far does it have to...

They pin type also came on the 75-79 Cordoba/Magnums. There seems to be no rhyme or reason as to why they put slider or pin types on these cars, I have seen (and bought) both. I have a set of pin type on hand now. Perhaps someone else can chime in, but I think the Cordoba pin calipers will...

When you put in your rear disks, is that when it started dragging on the old calipers? Did you change the Master cylinder, or go from power to manual brakes? When I switch from power to manual, I had the brake rod mis-adjusted, with the same dragging, even caused the pads to discolor.

Awesome, thanks!

I need the Front Parking Brake Cable for a 66 Barracuda, the one that runs from the handle inside the car to the adjuster underneath the drivers seat. My adjusting nut is rusted in place, and I cannot turn it. Where can I source one of these?

The pads are for a 88 Turbo T-bird. Don't know about the redrilled axles, though, mine are Yukons with green bearings.

I had the same concern about sizing. I e-mailed iRotors ahead of time for the specs, and they sent me the below, which was exactly what I received, except for the weight, which was off by +20 lbs. FWIW, my A-body 10.7" rotors weighed 22 lbs the Cordoba 11.75" rotors weighed 27 lbs

Those look great! Much better proportions than on mine.

Here are mine viewed through 17" Torqlites. I got the Brackets from a Cordoba enthusiast named Barry for $30 + shipping. PM me for his contact info, if needed. The rotors are the ones from iRotors on eBay, $135 shipped. Calipers just unbolted and rebolted back on, no problems.

Interesting idea. I plan on a run next week, and may try just that - thanks!

Fluid level is in pic. I had not considered that is was the Line Lock. Does it cause problems only when engaged, or more randomly?

I've got the 1.125", and it requires some leg to stop hard!

I recently upgraded to an aluminum Master Cylinder, hoping to correct the leaking lid problem. Before I had a 2 different Manual Brake master cylinders, and both seeped fluid out of the lid. The aluminum one, with twist on caps, is doing it too!! Something is causing an incredible amount of...

FWIW, the included brake line is just a short rubber line that connect the caliper to your hardline. You will either have to bend the excess hard line on the axle around, or cut and re-flare it, which I did. The line included will not reach to the Y-block on the axle.

mine are 17x8's, and easily clear. The 15's should clear as well, maybe even 14's!

You'll love them! i installed mine about 2 weeks ago, and they went on easily. Near perfect fit. A few tips: 1. Don't tighten the 4 bolts that hold the brackets down until you get the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on started. They tend to tighten up and move the caliper bolt holes together...

I will check into the Bore on the Master, and also try to rebleed the system for the "balance" as you suggest. Thanks!

After thinking about it, I have never owned a car that had manual brakes! I recently switched my Duster over from Power brakes, using an old a-body rod with a 73 Duster manual disk/drum master cylinder from Advance Auto parts. I have the stock 73 Duster disks up front, and b-body 11 x 2 inch...

WOW! Good call. I checked it out, and I DO have the wrong one! Your the MAN!

I have a 73 Duster, front disk rear drum, that I bought with a line lock installed on the front discs just under the Master Cylinder. When I first got the car, the line lock was disconnected, so of course I remedied that immeditatly. Now, if I press the brakes (hard), and engage the line...

I'm wantin to install an Adjustable Proportioning Valve for my rear brakes on the 340 Duster (disc/drum stock). Any reccomendations? Is the Jegs unit any good? Any install tips? Thanks!

Gotta love FABO!! That's what I was looking for, specifically for a 73 Duster, which I am assuming is identical to a 73 dart. I guess I'll go Mancinin adjustable, if I go at all. Thanks!!

Would like to switch from a Power brake setup to a manual with a modern master cylinder from "Richard Ehrenberg" off of MoParts, along with the larger rear cyclinder. He said i need a pushrod from a manual brake setup, or get the adjustable one. Of ocursem the adjustable is $43+ship from...