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Three years ago isn't new. Bad master cylinder, rust or kink in the line running to the rear. I had the same problem and had to replace the line. Other than that, stuck proportioning valve....

I went with fine lines. They went right on and looked perfect. I used the standard steel and shot them with clear before bolting them in place. I did have to modify my rear line for my proportioning valve. Standard steel is easier to flare. Stainless it way too hard for our cheap flare tools.

Pretty easy finding the brakes... you can find them on vans and trucks from the 70's. That is where my rear brakes came from.

My barracuda originally came with 10" drums all around. They had a baaaaad case of fade in traffic. I know my disc upgrade was way worth it. Too bad it took all through highschool and college before I figured that one out. It did make me drive carefully.

Cool, never seen a set used in a disc brake upgrade!

hmmm.. are you sure? Can a better picture of the rotor be posted? It may just be the step down showing up like a second piece... see my photo of my rotor.

Oh, and yours is the pin type, not the slider (like the A-bodies would have had). Here is a picture of mine with the slider calipers. Notice that I switched the spindles so my calipers are on the back. Makes room for a front sway bar. You will need F-body hoses if you do this.

That is the 1973+ disc brake upgrade. If you are rebuilding the whole unit, you will need 1973 upper ball joints, 1973 disc brake lower ball joints, calipers and pads. Everything else should be 1968 unless they upgrades the center link, steering box, etc... they didn't have to.

I'm not sure if my calipers are different than yours, but I was able to mount my hose (upside down) on the caliper so I could use it with the bleeder facing up. These are the F-body hoses that use the hollow bolt. I just removed the metal bracket that comes on it.

Ok, here you go. As you will notice, the F-body brake lhose is attached to the caliper by a banjo fitting and hollow bolt. That fitting has a little bit of hard line that transitions to rubber line that attaches to the car's hard line. I had to tilt it up to keep it from binding when I made...

The picture is deceiving. My bleeders are on the top. I have a banjo fitting that has a hard line that I have tilted up to run to the line.

Found the documentation on the grinding of the turn stop on the disc brake swap on an early A-body. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/suspension/mopp_0408_installing_factory_style_disc_brakes/viewall.html Seems as though it may be limited to using the stock '68 lower arms with...

Yes, drivetrain all in and all adjusted.. It may just be an issue with the early A-body like mine converting over to the large bolt pattern. The lower ball joint that I used has "stops" that limit the turn radius. I was able to grind them down some to regain some of the turning radius. Helps in...

When I did my 68 Barracuda, I made sure to swap the spindles and calipers as described. Use some Volare hoses, remove the metal bracket that they have on them, and bolt them on. As you can see, there is plenty of play. Only down side, you may have to grind the end of the ball joint bolts or...

I used Volare brake hoses and removed the bracket in the middle. You can position the banjo fitting to allow the hose to flex correctly.

You need a hose off a Volare. Get one for a disc brake car. It will come with a bracket wrapped around the middle of the hose (I guess it was used to support the hose). Get a set of pliers and carefully remove that bracket. It will give you a banjo type hose that will be long enough to work.