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No the guy told me he was just telling me what he was told about the this engine before he bought it. I bought this supposed rebuilt engine to save some time because i had a deadline to reach at the time. i took the other engine out and dismantled it, then ended up buying this engine with roller...

wow. update, valves are fine, rings are shot! dude lied through his @$$. im gonna call and chew him out and figure out what to do. now im back to square one after wasting lots of time and money! i know where he lives :)

i never said i wasnt going to... i was gonna check the compression to see if there was issues with that first with the slight optimistic chance that there was no issues, this project has become unbeleivably frustrating to me, please dont start up with the "i told you so's". I dont even have...

$%#&! 60 compression all around...heads coming back off

ya i'll start with the compression test, just started workin full time so time is a little more limited to work on her :/. so its really soundin like this cam isnt worth messin with can anyone reccomend one that will do really well with my setup?? not hard to replace so think im gonna do that if...

ya by funky i meant its not wanting to idle, or stay in low rpms, thats why im thinkin its just the carb. keep it above 2000 rpm and she runs beautifully

i dont know how it went in wrong, i didnt getta see it when it was apart cuz i was at work :/

well guys decided to do the better safe than sorry attitude, water pump and timing cover came off.....&%$#@ he put the cam in wrong. haha, i had work this morning so he put it back in and put it back together for me and the thing started immediatly! only thing to still do is work on the carb...

so most of you agree empty the lifters an put in the new rods and i should be ok? and about the cam, its what came with the block and rolling assembly, im hoping its not as horrible as you guys are saying. lol, im running nonported 340 heads with 9.5:1 dual dish forged pistons .040 over. will it...

ok looks like i made a rookie mistake. didnt empty the lifters so all of em were topped out when i put em in :/. just got my new pushrods and im emptying the lifters now

lmao. thats awesome. ok so just for kicks i took two straight rods, and put them back in cyliner 1, and turned it over a couple times by hand, and the cylinder built up its compression, the valves opened right, and best of all it didnt bend the rods. i mean if they were gonna bend still wouldnt...

yea and unbent one is 7.5 exactly

ok i just talked with the guy i built the engine with about it and i remember what the dots are are your talking about, i was there and positive when he put the gears on the dots were together just like it showed in the book. when putting on the rockers we went by the book which just said torque...

im not sure about pushrod length actually, they were just the rods that were used with the cam before this one, it had 435 lift, and this one has 474, think thats enough to do it? im leaning more towards the lifters not being pumped because some of these things were bent a loot more, so maybe...

ok just to check are you saying that if the lifters didnt have enough oil in them that that could be why the rods bent? and now that the engine has had oil pumped all through it, its now fine and just needs the new push rods to work? i wasnt there for the installation of the cam, lifters and...

um im really not sure what ya mean, like i said im just kind of learning about engine building :/

so whats that require entirely? if its hard to explain i'll just try and find a good description

the cam specs are: (yea itsa mp) Adv. Duration: .280°/280° Dur. @ .050'': 238°/238° Lift: .474''/.474'' Centerline: 110° Basic RPM: 2000-6000 RPM it was just the cam that came with the block and roller assembly, i bought it as a temp engine for the car while i built the 360 up. the cam...

i do have the stock springs and that is starting to appear to be the problem, any particular set of springs i should order?

ok so been rebuilding the 318 for awhile, got everything all back together, when manually turning the engine before it was installed the thing sounded like it had great compression, we followed the book when putting the engine together, but now the thing is in the car, we try starting it up...

well it looks like i should just save my efforts of twin turboing for the 360 afterall. looking like i actually might get the money to do that now! have a core with j heads and rolling assembly, gonna find some 8:1 pistons or around there. you say they make cams for turbo engines? ill go check...

is there one with higher rpm range?

hey will do man, thanks~

ok so i now have 2 cams to choose from for my barracuda. One from the engine it had and one from the engine i just bought. they are for a 318 mild built with forged pistons. compression was 9.5:1 for the pistons i think but now it has 340 heads on the 318 so idk what that'll change, make it...

well i think 300's about the cheapest possible thing i can do, i can hardly get the gaskets for the other engine for that! I have another car to commute with but im buying this engine because i dont have the funds yet to build the other one completly how it should be done and i would like to...

ok so when you said i should get a temp engine for it i went on craigslist an started searching! i found a 318 rebuilt by keith hershberger in woodburn (hershberger motors) with mopar purple cam 284/484 and .030 over forged pistons. less than 1000 miles, but he sold the swirl port heads off it...

thanks a lot thats what i was hoping. i found a really nice built 318 for cheap so i think im gonna do what they said and take time building "the real" engine for it the right way~

ok im building a 360 right now and while im choosing the internals im taking into account the idea of twin turbocharging it in the near future. Ive been told to go with low compression pistons (8:1) if i want to go higher boost 8-12+ psi. So im wondering if im getting higher compression pistons...