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The actual name of the place is called Penticton Sandblasting. It is on the other side of the channel, by the lumber mill. Penticton Sandblasting Ltd. (250).493.8877

Hah ya, I have a 69 barracuda that is in the midst of the restoration. A good sandblasting place that I went to last summer was in Penticton, and its called Penticton sandblasting. They charged me $400 for a truck cab, doors and the box, and it was very nicly done. They did it quick too, only...

Hey Marko your from Vernon! I was up there a few days ago mountain biking at Silverstar. Right now I'm working in Keremeos.8)

Did you sand the primer to 600-800? then wet sand?

Best way not just for A bodies, but all cars is to completely disassemble the car( windows, doors, fender, suspension, engine....) then paint it, and re-assemble.:clock:

Got my old truck sandblasted for $400, and it took an afternoon!

I work at an auto body shop. Easiest thing to do is new sheet metal, like for the new door get a new one or a skin, and same thing for the trunk. Also for the small dents and dings just take your time. All's you need is a bar sander, hammer, and a bunch of time.:read2:

Thanks for the tips. I will be referring to this in the future.:read2:

all personal preference, I like to start with 40-80 and work my way up.

i think its called "bond-glass" which is a mix of fiberglass and bondo, try filling the cracks with it.

try aarfiberglass, but I got mine off craigslist for $100.:snakeman:

All the products are good now a days. Funny story, I painted my car and it looked really nice(base/clear), then 3 days later i decided to wax it, and it looked good for about 6 months. Problem was that the paint wasn't fully cured and the wax locked in the moisture from the expanding gases. In...

x2

should work.

on my first bodywork project I only used a bar sander, took me ages.... For the gun for primer i would just use a cheap gun, maybe with a 1.6 or 1.8 tip, then get a good devisibliss gun with i think bout a 1.2 tip in it for the thinner base and clear.:read2:

Most of the time fiberglass is easier because is does not rust and does not require too much, if not any bodywork

it is red8) uhaua

i think i might have some kicking round, i will check tomorrow

easy, just run your hand over the area. You will feel them

hey, im just trying to lighten up the load and wondering how hard it is to make your own fiberglass hood. I dont think it would be too hard because i could just use the original hood as a mold? How would i do this? is it posssible? anything..... thanks :snakeman:

ahh there we go, thanks

quick question im removing my windshield and i usually just cut the weatherstripping, is there any other way to remove the windshield than cutting the stripping? ( I want to save the stripping) thanks

thats a pretty good rip off, 133 hours to just replace the trunk and extensions?

thanks, sounds like a good idea

Ya i might have to do that. A friend of mine has a welding shop and he does lots of frame work, i might have to take the dart frame and the cuda up to him for a while. 8)

Ya its pretty rusty because pretty much anywhere on the frame i can poke a hole throught with a screwdriver. Also i think that the frame caps or the new rails just go over top of the old frame, and since im keeping the car for a while i would always regret covering up my old rusted frame...

Well yesterday i started removing the frame on my parts car(69 dart) to put on my cuda. All's i can say is there is a lot of stinkin spot welds. Has anyone ever done this before? Tips? How do i re-align the frame on my cuda? thanks :munky2:

year one

pretty much just drill out all the spot welds? :read2:

This weekend im removing my quarter panel skins on my 69 cuda. Any tips or advice? thanks:snakeman: